Easter Bunny, bawk, bawk
Sunday 27 April is Orthodox Easter. On Saturday, Helena got up at 6am to begin cooking. She is an excellent cook and in particular, an amazing baker. She made 6 or so loaves of bread, 3 of which were intricately decorated w/ small pieces of dough. I photographed them, so they will eventually be up on my website.
When I got back from Russian class on Sat., I watched how they decorated egg. Helena brought from outside some small leaves, I think just weeds, but ones w/ pretty leaves. She wet the leaves and placed them on the egg surface, then wrapped a piece of cut up panty hose around, tying this with string to secure it. She’d had about 8 onions worth of onion skin boiling for some time, and this had created a natural yellow-orange dye. She boiled the eggs in this mixture for 7 minutes and then unwrapped them. I also photographed these, and they were so pretty and natural looking. They sort of reminded me of a Martha Stewart project, but really I think that woman has tainted the notion all crafts and rustic arts for my generation. Uck. It’s like she has taken the notion of making something pretty by hand at home and patented it and co-opted the idea for her own profit. Don’t even get me started.
Sunday morning at 4am, we got up, and at 4:45am, walked down to the church. It was cold. It was dark. I am quite the morning person, so my language skills were really at their best at that early hour. Not. As we walked, we were soon in a large crowd of people, all carrying baskets w/ embroidered fabric covering them. The baskets were filled with kolbasa, meat, the decorated bread (either homemade or store bought, as some people are moving away from traditional arts), decorated eggs and candles.
I could hear the bells ringing as we approached and soon we were walking among a huge throng in the rising light. We met a friend of Ira’s along the way and all walked together.
At the church, which is partly under construction as so many are here (churches were prohibited during Soviet times, so they’re still being built and enlarged some 10 years after independence), we stood in a curving line of people, all with baskets in front of them on the ground, waiting for the priest to come and bless us and our baskets of food. We unfortunately stood under the bell tower and those bells that sounded so pretty half a km. away were less melodic just above head.
After some time, a beared and bespectacled priest came around. He carried a small, handmade broom that is ubiquitous here. His helper carried a bucket of water and the priest liberally splashed water on people and baskets alike, saying all the while, “Kristos Vas Kres - Jesus has risen.” I only got a little water sprayed on me, as I was cowering behind Ira like the unbaptized person I am, but many people were quite drenched. Hey, it was cold and I’m not an Orthodox Catholic, so little holy water was wasted on me.
We got home around 7am and Helena, who apparently enjoys cooking for this holiday, but not getting up early to get wet for it, was waiting. She spread out all the food she’d spent the day before preparing and that we’d had blessed: pork roast, roasted chicken, the fancy breads (some rolled w/ raisins, some rolled w/ poppy seed and raisin), a very typical Ukrainian salad (krab, canned corn, rice, onion and mayo) and also the ubiquitious kolbasa and cheese. We opened a bottle of the sweet dessert wine that Ira so loves and toasted: “Kristos Vas Kres - Jesus has risen” and then the reply, “Vaistas Vas Kras - it is true he has risen.” It is tradition to say this 3 times.
We then played a game I don’t understand entirely, but which involves trying to break another person’s egg shell. I think I won, but maybe they were being polite.
Then we slept til about 1pm and then got up and ate again. I like this holiday, except for those damn bells.
28 April 2003
20 -24 April
On Sunday, we finished our conference and by lunchtime were whisked away to do our site visit. Site visit is the time when we visit the organization where we’ll work for 3 days. There are 5 other people in my group that will work with CEUME’s regional offices (Lviv, Donestk, Kharkiv, Odesa and Dnipropetrovsk), so all of the PCT’s and our counterparts went to the central CEUME office in Kyiv via taxi. I was a little tired and dehydrated from going out the prior night to a very cool club called “44” that is sort of a jazz club and had a good mixture of Americans, Europeans and Ukrainians. Being there was the first time I’ve felt “off-duty” or somehow relaxed in a way I used to think was normal.
Anyway, I’m in the taxi w/ Nancy (fellow PCT going to Lviv), her coordinator, and Bogdana is sitting up front. I am dizzy, we are driving fast through the city and suddenly we’re downtown, right across from the “Sports Palace” where major sporting events are held, like the recent Ukraine/Spain football match. Kyiv is a pretty city with many fancy old and new buildings, which how I am able to describe the architecture. It is so big city and I was feeling so country mouse. Or maybe tired mouse.
I wasn’t entirely in my body and we were just about to meet our director and then I was going to go to my apartment for the next few days. It was just so much and I wished that I’d invested in sleep the evening before and not socializing. Socializing is important also I’m just too old anymore to get away properly on little sleep.
We enter the building and go up to the office. It’s modern and western style and we all sit down in a sunny, large conference room. We meet Oleksander, Sasha, who is the director of the organization. He introduces himself and talks about the organization, then asks the PCT’s to go around and talk about our experience and what we hope to bring to the organization. I’m a little panicked at this impromptu public speaking event, but decide to talk about the web development, of course, and about my new interest in event planning. Everyone goes around and does their spiel and it’s very interesting to learn about what my fellow PCT’s have done.
We then walk a couple of blocks to a very nice restaurant, Pervek, that serves traditional Ukrainian food. The wait staff wears costumes that I might associate w/ some sort of Bovarian festival and cleavage abounds, at least among the female staff. I ate salo for the first time! This is perhaps the national food of Ukraine, or at least tied w/ borscht. Salo is basically pork fat, but it’s really so much more. I ate some that was liberally mixed with garlic and I was shocked how great it is. I made the faux pas of mentioning how much I liked the “garlic butter.” I knew about salo, but I thought it was different or looked different. (For a full treatise on salo, read the FAQ sheet I have on this site, under PC Ukraine, of course.)
Anyway, it was more “stranger in a strange land” time - we ate at this most posh restaurant and I’m trying to make conversation with all these new people and trying to not appear as overwhelmed by all this niceness. I think maybe one day I will finally accept that things will be so different than I expected, but I haven’t yet.
I actually had a conversation about this with another PCT that will work in Kyiv. We admitted to being sort of disappointed that we aren’t suffering in this experience. I mean, I knew that I’d be in a city and I knew that by virtue of being in Europe, albeit Eastern Europe, that things would be relatively nice, at least compared to doing work in rural Mongolia, for example. But I still expected to work somewhere that might not have a computer, that was really grassroots, where people wouldn’t speak English better than me.
I want to be clear that I’m not complaining. CEUME is doing important work and it is a tremendous opportunity for me to work with there. I think I will learn a great deal and that I will be able to find areas to work that will be satisfying and that I might feel like I’m helping somehow. I’m just prattling on about how this experience is difficult for me, and how the difficulties are so unexpected.
One thing that is interesting in keeping this journal is the public nature of it. Some friends have written how they think it’s either interesting or brave of me to be so relatively frank here and write about feelings, etc. I also think that it is interesting b/c I’m realizing that I need to be careful about who and what I write. I have tried to only write about my experiences on purpose, as other’s stories are theirs to tell. It will be interesting to see if I ever get in trouble w/ this public space and my words.
Back to our original subject, after lunch, Bogdana showed me to where I’d stay for the duration of the site visit. I know that this concept must be tiring to read already, but yes, I was a little surprised that the apartment was a large, renovated, Western-style flat, complete with modern washing machine. My favorite part of the apartment is the fancy paint job, with sparkles mixed in. At night I kept feeling like I was dizzy and seeing stars as the glitter would sparkle in the light.
I spent the next couple of days at CEUME. Sasha kindly took time to orient me, I met many people who work there and got to go to a very interesting press conference and tour at a hospital for children victims of Chernobyl. Apparently there are many cases of children of cleanup workers and of people who remained in the area getting quite ill, and there were many young children at this hospital.
In terms of my actual job, I am unsure exactly what I’ll be doing, but it seems that in addition to some website work that they need help with, I could be working on event planning, conducting seminars for staff and/or the public about IT issues and/or doing whatever they need.
At the apartment, I watched “Emma” dubbed in Russian. I hate dubbing, but at least it was good practice for language. I also got to eat Chinese food and I was shocked how delicious it taste!!! I guess I have missed eating non-Ukrainian food a little bit, although I really have no complaints about it.
On Thursday, after talking to my PC Regional Coordinator about the site visit, I returned to Brovary. I had bought a chocolate Easter bunny at a cute bakery in Kyiv and thus armed, knocked on Ira and Helena’s door. It felt so good to come “home” and see them! We had a great dinner and I felt so happy that someone knows me and was happy to see me. Slowly things become more familiar and slowly I feel more settled. Of course this process takes time, but the meantime while it is taking its time can be rather lonely.
On Sunday, we finished our conference and by lunchtime were whisked away to do our site visit. Site visit is the time when we visit the organization where we’ll work for 3 days. There are 5 other people in my group that will work with CEUME’s regional offices (Lviv, Donestk, Kharkiv, Odesa and Dnipropetrovsk), so all of the PCT’s and our counterparts went to the central CEUME office in Kyiv via taxi. I was a little tired and dehydrated from going out the prior night to a very cool club called “44” that is sort of a jazz club and had a good mixture of Americans, Europeans and Ukrainians. Being there was the first time I’ve felt “off-duty” or somehow relaxed in a way I used to think was normal.
Anyway, I’m in the taxi w/ Nancy (fellow PCT going to Lviv), her coordinator, and Bogdana is sitting up front. I am dizzy, we are driving fast through the city and suddenly we’re downtown, right across from the “Sports Palace” where major sporting events are held, like the recent Ukraine/Spain football match. Kyiv is a pretty city with many fancy old and new buildings, which how I am able to describe the architecture. It is so big city and I was feeling so country mouse. Or maybe tired mouse.
I wasn’t entirely in my body and we were just about to meet our director and then I was going to go to my apartment for the next few days. It was just so much and I wished that I’d invested in sleep the evening before and not socializing. Socializing is important also I’m just too old anymore to get away properly on little sleep.
We enter the building and go up to the office. It’s modern and western style and we all sit down in a sunny, large conference room. We meet Oleksander, Sasha, who is the director of the organization. He introduces himself and talks about the organization, then asks the PCT’s to go around and talk about our experience and what we hope to bring to the organization. I’m a little panicked at this impromptu public speaking event, but decide to talk about the web development, of course, and about my new interest in event planning. Everyone goes around and does their spiel and it’s very interesting to learn about what my fellow PCT’s have done.
We then walk a couple of blocks to a very nice restaurant, Pervek, that serves traditional Ukrainian food. The wait staff wears costumes that I might associate w/ some sort of Bovarian festival and cleavage abounds, at least among the female staff. I ate salo for the first time! This is perhaps the national food of Ukraine, or at least tied w/ borscht. Salo is basically pork fat, but it’s really so much more. I ate some that was liberally mixed with garlic and I was shocked how great it is. I made the faux pas of mentioning how much I liked the “garlic butter.” I knew about salo, but I thought it was different or looked different. (For a full treatise on salo, read the FAQ sheet I have on this site, under PC Ukraine, of course.)
Anyway, it was more “stranger in a strange land” time - we ate at this most posh restaurant and I’m trying to make conversation with all these new people and trying to not appear as overwhelmed by all this niceness. I think maybe one day I will finally accept that things will be so different than I expected, but I haven’t yet.
I actually had a conversation about this with another PCT that will work in Kyiv. We admitted to being sort of disappointed that we aren’t suffering in this experience. I mean, I knew that I’d be in a city and I knew that by virtue of being in Europe, albeit Eastern Europe, that things would be relatively nice, at least compared to doing work in rural Mongolia, for example. But I still expected to work somewhere that might not have a computer, that was really grassroots, where people wouldn’t speak English better than me.
I want to be clear that I’m not complaining. CEUME is doing important work and it is a tremendous opportunity for me to work with there. I think I will learn a great deal and that I will be able to find areas to work that will be satisfying and that I might feel like I’m helping somehow. I’m just prattling on about how this experience is difficult for me, and how the difficulties are so unexpected.
One thing that is interesting in keeping this journal is the public nature of it. Some friends have written how they think it’s either interesting or brave of me to be so relatively frank here and write about feelings, etc. I also think that it is interesting b/c I’m realizing that I need to be careful about who and what I write. I have tried to only write about my experiences on purpose, as other’s stories are theirs to tell. It will be interesting to see if I ever get in trouble w/ this public space and my words.
Back to our original subject, after lunch, Bogdana showed me to where I’d stay for the duration of the site visit. I know that this concept must be tiring to read already, but yes, I was a little surprised that the apartment was a large, renovated, Western-style flat, complete with modern washing machine. My favorite part of the apartment is the fancy paint job, with sparkles mixed in. At night I kept feeling like I was dizzy and seeing stars as the glitter would sparkle in the light.
I spent the next couple of days at CEUME. Sasha kindly took time to orient me, I met many people who work there and got to go to a very interesting press conference and tour at a hospital for children victims of Chernobyl. Apparently there are many cases of children of cleanup workers and of people who remained in the area getting quite ill, and there were many young children at this hospital.
In terms of my actual job, I am unsure exactly what I’ll be doing, but it seems that in addition to some website work that they need help with, I could be working on event planning, conducting seminars for staff and/or the public about IT issues and/or doing whatever they need.
At the apartment, I watched “Emma” dubbed in Russian. I hate dubbing, but at least it was good practice for language. I also got to eat Chinese food and I was shocked how delicious it taste!!! I guess I have missed eating non-Ukrainian food a little bit, although I really have no complaints about it.
On Thursday, after talking to my PC Regional Coordinator about the site visit, I returned to Brovary. I had bought a chocolate Easter bunny at a cute bakery in Kyiv and thus armed, knocked on Ira and Helena’s door. It felt so good to come “home” and see them! We had a great dinner and I felt so happy that someone knows me and was happy to see me. Slowly things become more familiar and slowly I feel more settled. Of course this process takes time, but the meantime while it is taking its time can be rather lonely.
Thursday 17 April through 20 April, I was in Kyiv at the beloved PiG for our mid-training conference. Dan, Larry and I made our way, all by ourselves, to Kyiv. So you are duly impressed, this involved taking the now-familiar marshrutka to the Losina metro stop, a transfer through byzantine hallways at the Chreschiatik station to another metro line, exiting the metro to then walking underground on one of the many pathways that allow one to cross streets w/o walking in traffic. We then completed our journey with a final marshrutka, where I got to say the phrase I’ve been practicing for some time, “Hastonivite, pozjalista - stop here, please.”
An aside: I heavily employ mnemonic devices to learn language. For example, I remember “hastonovite” because it reminds me of “hasta la vista, baby.” I remember “newdeli - week” because it reminds me of “new dehli.” I remember “pamogat - to help” b/c it reminds me of pomegranate. Sometimes I wonder if these are too complicated, but they amuse me and seem to help.
Anyway, it was surprisingly good to see everyone, or at least the 40 or so of us who are in the “Business” group. There was much gossip and comparing of home stay experiences. Rumors of possession of particularly unsavory porno and some other such nonsense predominated the first couple of days, but some gossip that was confirmed to be true was equally juicy. I hereby retract any previous statements that our group 24 is boring and not living up to PC standards of hedonism.
For the three days we were there, we had seminars and interviews each day from 9am to 5pm. On Friday night, we had a grand dinner where we met our Coordinators, who are our counterparts from the organizations that we’ll work with. Most had traveled from far away, but mine, Bogdana, of course just came from Kyiv.
Bogdana is probably around my age and speaks English better than I do. She is the coordinator for trainings for CEUME and I hope to work with her, traveling around the country organizing and running such events. We talked a lot about traveling and also about how she had lived in DC for a year. She’s urbane and very used to working with Americans, so again I see that my experience will be so different than I expected.
An aside: I heavily employ mnemonic devices to learn language. For example, I remember “hastonovite” because it reminds me of “hasta la vista, baby.” I remember “newdeli - week” because it reminds me of “new dehli.” I remember “pamogat - to help” b/c it reminds me of pomegranate. Sometimes I wonder if these are too complicated, but they amuse me and seem to help.
Anyway, it was surprisingly good to see everyone, or at least the 40 or so of us who are in the “Business” group. There was much gossip and comparing of home stay experiences. Rumors of possession of particularly unsavory porno and some other such nonsense predominated the first couple of days, but some gossip that was confirmed to be true was equally juicy. I hereby retract any previous statements that our group 24 is boring and not living up to PC standards of hedonism.
For the three days we were there, we had seminars and interviews each day from 9am to 5pm. On Friday night, we had a grand dinner where we met our Coordinators, who are our counterparts from the organizations that we’ll work with. Most had traveled from far away, but mine, Bogdana, of course just came from Kyiv.
Bogdana is probably around my age and speaks English better than I do. She is the coordinator for trainings for CEUME and I hope to work with her, traveling around the country organizing and running such events. We talked a lot about traveling and also about how she had lived in DC for a year. She’s urbane and very used to working with Americans, so again I see that my experience will be so different than I expected.
A quick note to follow up that the party was interesting - a funny mixture of young Ukrainians, young to middle aged PCT's and great pizza. Who knew that shredded, sauteed carrots, onion and mayo would be so good on pizza? Ira was disapointed that we wouldn't dance much, despite my providing an example. Ah, well, now she's learned a valuable cultural lesson that Americans don't dance. (apologies to those Americans that do, of course)
14 April 2003
11 Apr. 2003
“But what is happiness except the simple harmony between a man and the life he leads?”
- Albert Camus
OK fine, I got this quote off a cereal box. A generic brand cereal box. Nonetheless, it accurately sums up the joy that I am feeling for having pursued my dreams. The payoff is huge, when one is lucky, from following the voice that says crazy things like, “We need to leave this rich life in CO and go to Ukraine, learn Russian, leave all friends, family, dog and a strong love behind, ok? Whattaya say?”
We are preparing the house to host a party tonight. I made chocolate chip cookies (I will later devote an entire journal entry to the wonders of Ukrainian and Russian chocolate), Helena is making a pizza, Ukrainian style (she’s sautéing carrots and onions right now, and I’m suspicious about the package of ketchup on the table) and Ira has been rearranging the furniture and cleaning. We invited a nearly equal number of Americans to Ukrainians and most of the Ukrainians that are coming speak some English. I think I may enjoy preparing for the party as much or more than the party, but that’s ok, too.
I feel so comfortable with Ira and Helena and especially so when we are all crammed in the kitchen, discussing food, weather, whatever questions they think up for me about the US and Helena is often very curious about Costa Rica. I also ask tons of questions for them and have become more adept at refusing more food. I am very lucky that providence saw fit to match us together.
I also could devote a journal entry to the common thread of women in their kitchens. As much as I enjoy cooking, I also enjoy the time in the kitchen with friends or family. (MOM!! Stephanie!! Jules, Free!! McGill!!) I love how quickly I felt home in the kitchen, even before I had 5 words of Russian down. I love how Helena has a system of doing things in her kitchen, which of course reminds me of my Mom in her kitchen (although Mom has more complex systems set up in her kitchen!) and reminds me of Dona Christina in her kitchen in Puntarenas (Costa Rica) and reminds me of countless women I know and have known in their kitchens and also of a few select men, of which right now I can only think of Charlie of Chez Wicker. I think that for me, part of what I cherish the most from traveling and living abroad is finding human commonalities that transcend culture and borders. I’m not prettying anything up here, there are certainly differences and big ones between peoples, but I like to remember the similarities, too.
“But what is happiness except the simple harmony between a man and the life he leads?”
- Albert Camus
OK fine, I got this quote off a cereal box. A generic brand cereal box. Nonetheless, it accurately sums up the joy that I am feeling for having pursued my dreams. The payoff is huge, when one is lucky, from following the voice that says crazy things like, “We need to leave this rich life in CO and go to Ukraine, learn Russian, leave all friends, family, dog and a strong love behind, ok? Whattaya say?”
We are preparing the house to host a party tonight. I made chocolate chip cookies (I will later devote an entire journal entry to the wonders of Ukrainian and Russian chocolate), Helena is making a pizza, Ukrainian style (she’s sautéing carrots and onions right now, and I’m suspicious about the package of ketchup on the table) and Ira has been rearranging the furniture and cleaning. We invited a nearly equal number of Americans to Ukrainians and most of the Ukrainians that are coming speak some English. I think I may enjoy preparing for the party as much or more than the party, but that’s ok, too.
I feel so comfortable with Ira and Helena and especially so when we are all crammed in the kitchen, discussing food, weather, whatever questions they think up for me about the US and Helena is often very curious about Costa Rica. I also ask tons of questions for them and have become more adept at refusing more food. I am very lucky that providence saw fit to match us together.
I also could devote a journal entry to the common thread of women in their kitchens. As much as I enjoy cooking, I also enjoy the time in the kitchen with friends or family. (MOM!! Stephanie!! Jules, Free!! McGill!!) I love how quickly I felt home in the kitchen, even before I had 5 words of Russian down. I love how Helena has a system of doing things in her kitchen, which of course reminds me of my Mom in her kitchen (although Mom has more complex systems set up in her kitchen!) and reminds me of Dona Christina in her kitchen in Puntarenas (Costa Rica) and reminds me of countless women I know and have known in their kitchens and also of a few select men, of which right now I can only think of Charlie of Chez Wicker. I think that for me, part of what I cherish the most from traveling and living abroad is finding human commonalities that transcend culture and borders. I’m not prettying anything up here, there are certainly differences and big ones between peoples, but I like to remember the similarities, too.
10 April 2003
Today my Russian class walked to the train station to do some “on the ground recon.” I realized as we walked around, dodging small lakes of muddy water, that I’ve been so coddled and protected since I arrived and have slowly begun to do more for myself. It’s such a different experience that what I was in Costa Rica, when I did everything for myself from the get go. That was hard, I’ll admit. I realize that literally, I’ve been barely looking up very much, partly because of ice, but also b/c it’s like there’s only so much I can deal with at a time. Everyday I look up a little more and see something new – a store here, the vast horizon of high-rise apartment buildings, huge fields of mud destined to be soccer fields in the summer. I realize this is just the tip of an iceberg that I hope I can explore.
The other funny thing is that every time I learn a new word or grammar structure in Russian, I hear it, then immediately think, wow, what a coincidence that people are saying that today, right when I learned it! Of course, I realize that they’ve probably been saying this all along and I just didn’t understand before. Our language training is imminently practical and I think I’ll be able to navigate after training. People have been complimentary about my learning, which is encouraging.
Today my Russian class walked to the train station to do some “on the ground recon.” I realized as we walked around, dodging small lakes of muddy water, that I’ve been so coddled and protected since I arrived and have slowly begun to do more for myself. It’s such a different experience that what I was in Costa Rica, when I did everything for myself from the get go. That was hard, I’ll admit. I realize that literally, I’ve been barely looking up very much, partly because of ice, but also b/c it’s like there’s only so much I can deal with at a time. Everyday I look up a little more and see something new – a store here, the vast horizon of high-rise apartment buildings, huge fields of mud destined to be soccer fields in the summer. I realize this is just the tip of an iceberg that I hope I can explore.
The other funny thing is that every time I learn a new word or grammar structure in Russian, I hear it, then immediately think, wow, what a coincidence that people are saying that today, right when I learned it! Of course, I realize that they’ve probably been saying this all along and I just didn’t understand before. Our language training is imminently practical and I think I’ll be able to navigate after training. People have been complimentary about my learning, which is encouraging.
9 Apr. 2003
Today we met again with the unemployment center to go over our project and also a timeline. We met with my favorite person there, Svetlana, who is super positive and business like and also I think so beautiful. The women here are just amazing beautiful. I mean, of course not everyone, but so many are really stunning. Some try to “enhance” this beauty with hair color not found in nature or nearly cartoonish makeup (I know, cultural judgment, not observation).
We are going to plan and present a workshop for center employees about using criteria to determine if a business idea and or plan is viable, with an emphasis on small scale market research. Svetlana told us today that she will invite people from other employment centers in the Kyiv oblast to participate. It’s exciting. I hope that this center will apply to get a PC volunteer down the road. I think it would be a great place to work and has lots of potential for development.
Today at the meeting, I was heartened b/c I understood many words. This is partly because I have reached a nice level where the language is gelling for me and also b/c they spoke in Russian and not Ukrainian, as they have in prior meetings. I got a lot, which I verified b/c of the translation. Sometimes I think I understand, then will find out that basically I’ve been making things up based on facial expressions, assumptions, etc. Some assumptions are quite humorous and fantastical and lead to funny situations. Wish I could think of an example right now, but alas.
It is very interesting to me how these languages are sorted out and that so many people speak at least 2 languages in their daily life. Officially, all government documents and meetings are required to be in Ukrainian and it is the official language. However, many people speak Russian as well and most people speak the mixture language, Dvoryak. I am glad to be learning proper Russian, as I think it could have good applications later and would allow me to go nearly anywhere in the former Soviet republic and be able to communicate a bit. On the other hand, I need to know at least niceties and some vocabulary in Ukrainian, as many stores, nearly all food and transport is in Ukrainian.
Luckily, there is some cross over in vocabulary and I have no idea about grammar. I know the Ukrainian alphabet, and it is only 3 or 4 letters different from the Russian alphabet.
Another demarcation for the language is geography. Western Ukraine is more nationalistic and tends to speak Ukrainian. Eastern Ukraine identifies itself as Russian by ethnicity and speaks mainly Russian. These are textbook answers and I’m looking forward to exploring the nuances. Language is endless fascinating to me and this Russian/Ukrainian mixture is no less.
Do take all of this with a grain of salt, as I have been studying this all of one month.
Tonight I went to an aerobics class at a nearby gym. I can’t remember if I wrote about going to this gym before, but I went once and just did weights. The class, which they call, “shaping” (as in English just like that but pronounced w/ their accent) is taught by a super fit woman who emphasizes keeping ones shoulders down and back (great) and also moving at all times to the fast beat of techno with high impact motions (less great). Somehow (!) she knew I wasn’t from ‘round these parts and when I didn’t her instructions, she would come over and physically move me into position. I really liked how she seemed to know most everyone’s names and she helped the less fit people to do slower exercises or with lower impact.
The style of dress was interesting for me, in that I realize I’m so used to the US and everyone having lots of clothes for every occasion. One has outdoors clothes, one has workout or gym clothes, one has fancy clothes. The women had varying degrees of shoes and I must admit to worrying about a couple who were wearing ballet slippers. Worrying b/c I have become so brainwashed that one must have full space-age, polymer cross-training shoes or one certainly can’t work out properly. There also is, um, less emphasis on well-fitted jog bras. ‘Nough said.
It was funny too b/c one woman kept getting phone calls on her mobile, but the teacher did razz her a little bit for talking during class. In the same building as the gym is some sort of martial arts studio. There are photos of the people doing this art and it is really beautiful and they’re super flexible. There are swords involved, but it’s not the Japanese sword art whose name escapes me now. Kendo, that’s it.
As I got ready to go to class, I realized that what I needed to wear to class was the one piece of clothing with an American flag. Could I have been more conspicuous? No matter, no one tried to rip off my shirt and burn it or anything. I just think it’s funny b/c I really would never wear the flag on clothes, just not my style, but I didn’t even consider that when this shirt made it into my allotted 100 lbs. of baggage. I just thought, “good workout shirt,” not “obvious sign that I’m American.”
To be clear: I am a patriot, but I just find wearing the flag on my chest a bit conspicuous. I will never sew a maple leaf to my backpack or anything like that, but nor do I want to be walking around waving the red, white and blue and speaking English loudly. (Americans are, um, renowned for being very loud in public relative to other peoples)
At the end of class, our aerobics queen ordered everyone to hang suspended from a bar for at least 5 seconds. All in all it was very interesting and if I can walk tomorrow w/o a cane, I’ll be very excited. I learned a new word, “rukki” which I thought meant “march,” but afterwards I looked it up in the dictionary and it means “hands.” :-0 It was exciting to understand certain words, though, such as “right,” “left,” and “straight.”
Time for sleep. The upstairs neighbor has decided it’s time to do some construction; I’m still trying to figure out what power tool he’s using. This will be a good test of my earplugs. I love earplugs. They make me a good neighbor and a well-rested girl. Duje noch.
Today we met again with the unemployment center to go over our project and also a timeline. We met with my favorite person there, Svetlana, who is super positive and business like and also I think so beautiful. The women here are just amazing beautiful. I mean, of course not everyone, but so many are really stunning. Some try to “enhance” this beauty with hair color not found in nature or nearly cartoonish makeup (I know, cultural judgment, not observation).
We are going to plan and present a workshop for center employees about using criteria to determine if a business idea and or plan is viable, with an emphasis on small scale market research. Svetlana told us today that she will invite people from other employment centers in the Kyiv oblast to participate. It’s exciting. I hope that this center will apply to get a PC volunteer down the road. I think it would be a great place to work and has lots of potential for development.
Today at the meeting, I was heartened b/c I understood many words. This is partly because I have reached a nice level where the language is gelling for me and also b/c they spoke in Russian and not Ukrainian, as they have in prior meetings. I got a lot, which I verified b/c of the translation. Sometimes I think I understand, then will find out that basically I’ve been making things up based on facial expressions, assumptions, etc. Some assumptions are quite humorous and fantastical and lead to funny situations. Wish I could think of an example right now, but alas.
It is very interesting to me how these languages are sorted out and that so many people speak at least 2 languages in their daily life. Officially, all government documents and meetings are required to be in Ukrainian and it is the official language. However, many people speak Russian as well and most people speak the mixture language, Dvoryak. I am glad to be learning proper Russian, as I think it could have good applications later and would allow me to go nearly anywhere in the former Soviet republic and be able to communicate a bit. On the other hand, I need to know at least niceties and some vocabulary in Ukrainian, as many stores, nearly all food and transport is in Ukrainian.
Luckily, there is some cross over in vocabulary and I have no idea about grammar. I know the Ukrainian alphabet, and it is only 3 or 4 letters different from the Russian alphabet.
Another demarcation for the language is geography. Western Ukraine is more nationalistic and tends to speak Ukrainian. Eastern Ukraine identifies itself as Russian by ethnicity and speaks mainly Russian. These are textbook answers and I’m looking forward to exploring the nuances. Language is endless fascinating to me and this Russian/Ukrainian mixture is no less.
Do take all of this with a grain of salt, as I have been studying this all of one month.
Tonight I went to an aerobics class at a nearby gym. I can’t remember if I wrote about going to this gym before, but I went once and just did weights. The class, which they call, “shaping” (as in English just like that but pronounced w/ their accent) is taught by a super fit woman who emphasizes keeping ones shoulders down and back (great) and also moving at all times to the fast beat of techno with high impact motions (less great). Somehow (!) she knew I wasn’t from ‘round these parts and when I didn’t her instructions, she would come over and physically move me into position. I really liked how she seemed to know most everyone’s names and she helped the less fit people to do slower exercises or with lower impact.
The style of dress was interesting for me, in that I realize I’m so used to the US and everyone having lots of clothes for every occasion. One has outdoors clothes, one has workout or gym clothes, one has fancy clothes. The women had varying degrees of shoes and I must admit to worrying about a couple who were wearing ballet slippers. Worrying b/c I have become so brainwashed that one must have full space-age, polymer cross-training shoes or one certainly can’t work out properly. There also is, um, less emphasis on well-fitted jog bras. ‘Nough said.
It was funny too b/c one woman kept getting phone calls on her mobile, but the teacher did razz her a little bit for talking during class. In the same building as the gym is some sort of martial arts studio. There are photos of the people doing this art and it is really beautiful and they’re super flexible. There are swords involved, but it’s not the Japanese sword art whose name escapes me now. Kendo, that’s it.
As I got ready to go to class, I realized that what I needed to wear to class was the one piece of clothing with an American flag. Could I have been more conspicuous? No matter, no one tried to rip off my shirt and burn it or anything. I just think it’s funny b/c I really would never wear the flag on clothes, just not my style, but I didn’t even consider that when this shirt made it into my allotted 100 lbs. of baggage. I just thought, “good workout shirt,” not “obvious sign that I’m American.”
To be clear: I am a patriot, but I just find wearing the flag on my chest a bit conspicuous. I will never sew a maple leaf to my backpack or anything like that, but nor do I want to be walking around waving the red, white and blue and speaking English loudly. (Americans are, um, renowned for being very loud in public relative to other peoples)
At the end of class, our aerobics queen ordered everyone to hang suspended from a bar for at least 5 seconds. All in all it was very interesting and if I can walk tomorrow w/o a cane, I’ll be very excited. I learned a new word, “rukki” which I thought meant “march,” but afterwards I looked it up in the dictionary and it means “hands.” :-0 It was exciting to understand certain words, though, such as “right,” “left,” and “straight.”
Time for sleep. The upstairs neighbor has decided it’s time to do some construction; I’m still trying to figure out what power tool he’s using. This will be a good test of my earplugs. I love earplugs. They make me a good neighbor and a well-rested girl. Duje noch.
09 April 2003
Today I saw a new weather icon: the sunny, rainy, snowy symbol. Yeah, don’t see that at home much! However, sunny, rainy, snowy pretty much describes the weather right now. Monday a.m. I woke to see a coat of fresh snow on the ground. It was pretty til the afternoon, when it turned slushy. Dan, fellow PCT, and I joke that we have one word for all the engineers here: drainage. It’s quite a gauntlet avoiding car-eating muddy potholes and the walls o’ water that the marshrutkas produce when ploughing through them.
It might sound like I’m complaining or despondent, mais non, mon ami. I find cheer in the small chickadees that hop around, sometimes providing the only color in the gray landscape, the yellow and green on their chests. I look forward to seeing my favorite street dog on his corner as I walk from class to the internet café each day. I also find humor where it comes and these days that is in many places. I’m warm and fed and thank god I have headphones and tons of music. Life is good.
Helena keeps telling me that once April 15 hits, the weather will change and it will really be spring. We’ll see. I also remember that in CO, one can’t count on consistent weather til June.
It might sound like I’m complaining or despondent, mais non, mon ami. I find cheer in the small chickadees that hop around, sometimes providing the only color in the gray landscape, the yellow and green on their chests. I look forward to seeing my favorite street dog on his corner as I walk from class to the internet café each day. I also find humor where it comes and these days that is in many places. I’m warm and fed and thank god I have headphones and tons of music. Life is good.
Helena keeps telling me that once April 15 hits, the weather will change and it will really be spring. We’ll see. I also remember that in CO, one can’t count on consistent weather til June.
Here are the latest ramblings from this country we call Ukraine, borderland.
Since I last wrote, our cluster met with the Unemployment Center. We had a group of the 7 PCT’s, our translator, Natasha, her husband, Peter, an Australian, two of our Peace Corps Business Development staff, Victor and Vickie, and finally, Ira, my host sister. Quite a mess of people. We gathered a great deal of info about the center, such as how the help unemployed people, how they’re processed and registered as official unemployed, the amount of unemployment money they receive and finally that these registered unemployed can submit a business plan for a small enterprise and receive the full amount they would get for a year as unemployed as a lump sum. This money they don’t have to pay back, but the risk is that they aren’t eligible for more money if the business isn’t successful.
The Unemployment Center had 3 people representing their side. It was very interesting working with translators. Protocol is that one should speak to the people one is trying to communicate with, not the translator, which is difficult to do and sometimes I didn’t do it. We decided that we will work on two projects with them: 1. Provide and translate to the Ukrainian context an American business plan and 2. Provide training for center staff about how to access if a business idea is viable, with an emphasis on how to conduct market research on a small level.
Our Peace Corps Biz Development people indicated that the three women we’re working with at the center are a lot more forthcoming in asking for help than many unemployment centers that they’ve worked with before. They seem very professional and our group is excited to work with them. The center is in a very spiffy new building, apparently built with German money. It will be very interesting to visit other PCV’s once we’re all at site, b/c my understanding is that Kyiv gets the lion’s share of growth and revenue, while the rest of the country is much farther behind developmentally.
We’ll meet again with the Unemployment Center this Wed. 9 April to propose the above and see if there’s anything else they want from us during our remaining approx. 6 weeks.
Next Thursday, the Business Development group, all of our clusters, will go to Kyiv for our mid-training conference and then to visit our sites. I will not travel far to my site, but most people will be going at least overnight on trains. I must admit to being a tad jealous, but know that I won’t be when they are dealing with moving all of their things on said trains.
What else? I finally gave in and started taking antibiotics to properly kill a bug that’s had me in its grasp since arriving in Brovary. Nearly immediately after beginning a cycle, I’m no longer a snot factory (sorry, I’m sure this is TMI, aka too much info) and my cough has stopped coming from deep inside lungs. Hurrah!
It snowed today! Spring here is nearly as psycho as in CO. The locals swear this isn’t par for the course, but we’ll see next year.
Two of the trainees in my cluster were medevac’d to Kyiv this past week. They’re fine now, but lots of minor illness and accidents abound. One trainee in another cluster was mugged, but it was described to me by our Training Director as being a case of being alone in the wrong spot in his town. I’m safe b/c I don’t tend to leave the apartment after I come home at 4 or 5pm. I suppose after the weather changes (when? If?) I might venture out accompanied by friends, but I’ve little incentive with the weather as it is.
This coming Friday, Ira is having a party here for the PCT’s and some of her friends, most of whom speak English at least a tad. It’s been entertaining hanging out with youngens like Ira (20 yo) and some of the vocabulary I’m getting from them is very teenager, my Russian teacher tells me. Julia, said Russian teacher, says it makes her feel old the vocabulary I’m bringing in, as she’s all of 27.
Julia is such a wonderful teacher and especially so because she too is away from her family for three months while teaching us. She not only is our Russian teacher, but also our community liaison and cheerleader, patient professor and expert translator of cultural norms. We have a 20 minute tea break in between our 4 hours of class, which is held in her tiny flat, and she has instituted a Russian only rule. It at first was sort of a drag, as it made it less of a break, but now it’s fun and we try to creatively use the small vocab we have to converse. It’s actually amazing how much one can say when one tries to think only in known words and keep things simple, instead of thinking of complex structures and vocab.
Learning has been a bit of up and down for me. I’m so enjoying the classes and being in a structured learning environment, and especially enjoying the satisfaction that comes from studying something and then hearing it on the street or using it at home. However, I’ve found myself quick to be despondent when I can’t think of a word or grammar and quick to think that I’ll never learn the language.
When I’m more rational, I feel pretty good about how much I’ve learned in a month and confident that I’ll be able to learn a great deal of Russian, a bit of Ukrainian and perhaps speak Dvoryak, the combination of these two languages that most Ukrainians speak. People have been encouraging about my growing ability, particularly those who first met me in the early grunting/pantomiming stage.
One thing that’s funny to me is how sometimes I’ll mix Spanish in with the Russian. Some things are difficult, like “ya” is “I’ in Russian, and “already” in Spanish, but used frequently in conversation. Or “nada” (nothing - Spanish) means “need” in Russian. Little things really, but sometimes hard.
Saturday was our one month anniversary in country. It was funny to me that that was a particularly hard day. There is a set model of stages of culture shock, but like any model, parts may apply to a person, while others might not and likely one’s own schedule may be different than the model. I had a “Stage 2” day - blaming and finding fault in everything, impatience and grumbling. Missing home terribly. Some days will be like this and I hope that most won’t. I mainly am happy about how few days I have like that.
Since I last wrote, our cluster met with the Unemployment Center. We had a group of the 7 PCT’s, our translator, Natasha, her husband, Peter, an Australian, two of our Peace Corps Business Development staff, Victor and Vickie, and finally, Ira, my host sister. Quite a mess of people. We gathered a great deal of info about the center, such as how the help unemployed people, how they’re processed and registered as official unemployed, the amount of unemployment money they receive and finally that these registered unemployed can submit a business plan for a small enterprise and receive the full amount they would get for a year as unemployed as a lump sum. This money they don’t have to pay back, but the risk is that they aren’t eligible for more money if the business isn’t successful.
The Unemployment Center had 3 people representing their side. It was very interesting working with translators. Protocol is that one should speak to the people one is trying to communicate with, not the translator, which is difficult to do and sometimes I didn’t do it. We decided that we will work on two projects with them: 1. Provide and translate to the Ukrainian context an American business plan and 2. Provide training for center staff about how to access if a business idea is viable, with an emphasis on how to conduct market research on a small level.
Our Peace Corps Biz Development people indicated that the three women we’re working with at the center are a lot more forthcoming in asking for help than many unemployment centers that they’ve worked with before. They seem very professional and our group is excited to work with them. The center is in a very spiffy new building, apparently built with German money. It will be very interesting to visit other PCV’s once we’re all at site, b/c my understanding is that Kyiv gets the lion’s share of growth and revenue, while the rest of the country is much farther behind developmentally.
We’ll meet again with the Unemployment Center this Wed. 9 April to propose the above and see if there’s anything else they want from us during our remaining approx. 6 weeks.
Next Thursday, the Business Development group, all of our clusters, will go to Kyiv for our mid-training conference and then to visit our sites. I will not travel far to my site, but most people will be going at least overnight on trains. I must admit to being a tad jealous, but know that I won’t be when they are dealing with moving all of their things on said trains.
What else? I finally gave in and started taking antibiotics to properly kill a bug that’s had me in its grasp since arriving in Brovary. Nearly immediately after beginning a cycle, I’m no longer a snot factory (sorry, I’m sure this is TMI, aka too much info) and my cough has stopped coming from deep inside lungs. Hurrah!
It snowed today! Spring here is nearly as psycho as in CO. The locals swear this isn’t par for the course, but we’ll see next year.
Two of the trainees in my cluster were medevac’d to Kyiv this past week. They’re fine now, but lots of minor illness and accidents abound. One trainee in another cluster was mugged, but it was described to me by our Training Director as being a case of being alone in the wrong spot in his town. I’m safe b/c I don’t tend to leave the apartment after I come home at 4 or 5pm. I suppose after the weather changes (when? If?) I might venture out accompanied by friends, but I’ve little incentive with the weather as it is.
This coming Friday, Ira is having a party here for the PCT’s and some of her friends, most of whom speak English at least a tad. It’s been entertaining hanging out with youngens like Ira (20 yo) and some of the vocabulary I’m getting from them is very teenager, my Russian teacher tells me. Julia, said Russian teacher, says it makes her feel old the vocabulary I’m bringing in, as she’s all of 27.
Julia is such a wonderful teacher and especially so because she too is away from her family for three months while teaching us. She not only is our Russian teacher, but also our community liaison and cheerleader, patient professor and expert translator of cultural norms. We have a 20 minute tea break in between our 4 hours of class, which is held in her tiny flat, and she has instituted a Russian only rule. It at first was sort of a drag, as it made it less of a break, but now it’s fun and we try to creatively use the small vocab we have to converse. It’s actually amazing how much one can say when one tries to think only in known words and keep things simple, instead of thinking of complex structures and vocab.
Learning has been a bit of up and down for me. I’m so enjoying the classes and being in a structured learning environment, and especially enjoying the satisfaction that comes from studying something and then hearing it on the street or using it at home. However, I’ve found myself quick to be despondent when I can’t think of a word or grammar and quick to think that I’ll never learn the language.
When I’m more rational, I feel pretty good about how much I’ve learned in a month and confident that I’ll be able to learn a great deal of Russian, a bit of Ukrainian and perhaps speak Dvoryak, the combination of these two languages that most Ukrainians speak. People have been encouraging about my growing ability, particularly those who first met me in the early grunting/pantomiming stage.
One thing that’s funny to me is how sometimes I’ll mix Spanish in with the Russian. Some things are difficult, like “ya” is “I’ in Russian, and “already” in Spanish, but used frequently in conversation. Or “nada” (nothing - Spanish) means “need” in Russian. Little things really, but sometimes hard.
Saturday was our one month anniversary in country. It was funny to me that that was a particularly hard day. There is a set model of stages of culture shock, but like any model, parts may apply to a person, while others might not and likely one’s own schedule may be different than the model. I had a “Stage 2” day - blaming and finding fault in everything, impatience and grumbling. Missing home terribly. Some days will be like this and I hope that most won’t. I mainly am happy about how few days I have like that.
02 April 2003
Of Black Swans and Pigeon Livers
Yesterday, Ira took me to see “Swan Lake” at the National Opera and Ballet Theater in Kyiv. We went in early to hang out and also to see if I could get a transformer at Tsum, the enormous department store that I think is somehow related to the “Gum” megastore in Moscow.
Getting ready took much of the day, what with baths, hair and manicures. I also had to study, so even though I got up at 8am to run in the park with my fellow cluster mate, Larry, suddenly it was 3pm and time to go.
We ran into other cluster mates Chris and Maria at Tsum. After unsuccessfully looking for a transformer, Ira and I bid Chris and Maria goodbye and wandered around Kyiv for a while. I was able to avoid going back to the 3 story underground mall that Ira loves and reminds me of parts of modernity that I dislike. Next time, we’ll go there, in deference to Ira.
This time I got to see some beautiful parts of the downtown area, including a monument to a cat that saved its owners by alerting them to a fire. The city has many ornate buildings (I’m sure there’s a predominant style, but I’m woefully uninformed about architecture) and much has been restored, some well done and many done then painted in what I consider gaudy colors. Nevertheless, the city has a strong European feel, with many cobbled streets and squares, and many spots that Ira kept pointing out as spots where cafes will open later in the spring.
Ira gets really excited when she hears other people speaking English and hastens to point this out to me. I’m rather a curmudgeon and usually grunt and change the subject.
We ate at the coolest cafeteria. It bills itself as Ukrainian home cookin’ and seems to really offer good food at reasonable prices. As such it was fully mobbed, but we were able to get a decent cappuccino and dessert and people watch.
Then, the theater! It is simply grand. Ira got us box seats and I felt rather posh sitting there. I realized how lovely it was of her to get the tickets and spend another whole day with me. An aside: I also realized on the metro to Kyiv that I’ve only been living here with Ira and Helena for two and a half weeks! It’s good to remember, especially to appreciate how well things are going and how close I feel to them and how comfortable I am here.
Anyway, the ballet was wonderful. I’ve only been before to the Nutcracker, also by Tschaikovsky, so I was unsure of some things. For example, I don’t know if it is universal ballet behaviour to clap after any good solo, during an act. I also was confused when the principles took a curtain call between acts 2 and 3, suggesting to me that the ballet was over. Also, at some points, the clapping changed to be in unison.
At the ballet, I saw our PCMO (Peace Corps Medical Officer), Nurse Linda. It was funny to be in such a big city and run into 4 PC affiliated people. There were many expats at the ballet and I’m looking forward to going again and maybe even venturing into opera.
One thing I felt while walking around Kyiv is that I really want to do whatever I need to do these next two years to learn Russian, get a masters in international development, whatever, in order to be able to live abroad and do interesting development work. I feel so lucky to be able to get this training via Peace Corps and in particular the language training.
In a couple of weeks, we’ll go back to Kyiv and have a mid-training conference for a couple of days, then have a 4 day site visit. I’m super excited to find out how far away my apartment is from work, as work is right downtown and I’d be really lucky to be less than 20 minutes from work. I could be as far away as 45 minutes via public transport. The metro here is quite nice and there are many marshrutkas (mini-vans that cost about $.25)
Back to Sunday, when we returned Brovary and the apartment at about 11pm, Helena was waiting up to find out all about our evening. I changed and then came out to find a small meal waiting, along with the ubiquitous chai (tea). Helena had made amazing blini (crepes) w/ a sweet cream cheese filling and also blini with grated apple. There was also a plate of something I at first thought was sautéed mushrooms and I began to worry, as I hate mushrooms. Then I realized it was some kind of meat and it didn’t smell good. I took a tentative bite and realized it was liver. I tried subterfuge by eating the blini, but soon Ira was asking me if I liked the other thing. I took a deep breath and said, “not so much.” I asked what it was, thinking it to be some kind of liver. At first Ira said chicken, then asked for the dictionary.
After a moment’s dictionary perusal, she said, “No, it’s pigeon liver.” Even though I felt guilty for not being grateful for whatever they give me to eat, I must admit to being happy I still haven’t eaten pigeon liver. I think maybe it’s a poor translation, and really it’s game hen or something, or maybe that’s what I tell myself so that I feel better at night. My cluster mate Larry asked somewhat seriously if I thought it was free-range pigeon.
Joking aside, people here live very close to near-poverty and as such, they eat what they have. Not eating something because they don’t like it isn’t a luxury many have. I sometimes forget this fact because people tend to be so well dressed and kempt and because I’m living in a relatively affluent suburb. Even so, there are countless babushka selling something on the street, sunflowers, pickles, gnarled beets and they do this to survive. There are also many babushkas begging and this is difficult to see.
It was a fowl day, full of birds one finds at the park, on stage and on the table.
Ring a death knoll for hot water: the word on the Brovary streets is that it will be officially turned off on April 15. Hmm, US tax day and the end of hot water. I feel lucky that at least I’ve had hot water during the cold weather this past month and at least the temperature is heating up now. Sort of. Anyway, I’ll take it like a Peace Corps Volunteer and pretend I got some really hard assignment instead of the Posh Corps like I did. Sponge baths aren’t so awful, right? Right?
Tonight, the babushka downstairs who is somehow related to Ira and Helena came up to ask me to try to find her friend that lives in America. She’s told me about this person every time we meet and tonight brought up a letter from 1999 w/ a name and address. With Ira translating, she asked me to find her, then maybe see if someone in America could phone her. I told her I’d try to find her phone no. and/or address online first. She hasn’t gotten a reply from this friend since ’99 and she wants to try to find the friend or her daughter to find out what happened. I tried not to promise too much, but it would be cool if I could find an email for the daughter, who apparently is a journalist.
Dobre noch - good night…
Yesterday, Ira took me to see “Swan Lake” at the National Opera and Ballet Theater in Kyiv. We went in early to hang out and also to see if I could get a transformer at Tsum, the enormous department store that I think is somehow related to the “Gum” megastore in Moscow.
Getting ready took much of the day, what with baths, hair and manicures. I also had to study, so even though I got up at 8am to run in the park with my fellow cluster mate, Larry, suddenly it was 3pm and time to go.
We ran into other cluster mates Chris and Maria at Tsum. After unsuccessfully looking for a transformer, Ira and I bid Chris and Maria goodbye and wandered around Kyiv for a while. I was able to avoid going back to the 3 story underground mall that Ira loves and reminds me of parts of modernity that I dislike. Next time, we’ll go there, in deference to Ira.
This time I got to see some beautiful parts of the downtown area, including a monument to a cat that saved its owners by alerting them to a fire. The city has many ornate buildings (I’m sure there’s a predominant style, but I’m woefully uninformed about architecture) and much has been restored, some well done and many done then painted in what I consider gaudy colors. Nevertheless, the city has a strong European feel, with many cobbled streets and squares, and many spots that Ira kept pointing out as spots where cafes will open later in the spring.
Ira gets really excited when she hears other people speaking English and hastens to point this out to me. I’m rather a curmudgeon and usually grunt and change the subject.
We ate at the coolest cafeteria. It bills itself as Ukrainian home cookin’ and seems to really offer good food at reasonable prices. As such it was fully mobbed, but we were able to get a decent cappuccino and dessert and people watch.
Then, the theater! It is simply grand. Ira got us box seats and I felt rather posh sitting there. I realized how lovely it was of her to get the tickets and spend another whole day with me. An aside: I also realized on the metro to Kyiv that I’ve only been living here with Ira and Helena for two and a half weeks! It’s good to remember, especially to appreciate how well things are going and how close I feel to them and how comfortable I am here.
Anyway, the ballet was wonderful. I’ve only been before to the Nutcracker, also by Tschaikovsky, so I was unsure of some things. For example, I don’t know if it is universal ballet behaviour to clap after any good solo, during an act. I also was confused when the principles took a curtain call between acts 2 and 3, suggesting to me that the ballet was over. Also, at some points, the clapping changed to be in unison.
At the ballet, I saw our PCMO (Peace Corps Medical Officer), Nurse Linda. It was funny to be in such a big city and run into 4 PC affiliated people. There were many expats at the ballet and I’m looking forward to going again and maybe even venturing into opera.
One thing I felt while walking around Kyiv is that I really want to do whatever I need to do these next two years to learn Russian, get a masters in international development, whatever, in order to be able to live abroad and do interesting development work. I feel so lucky to be able to get this training via Peace Corps and in particular the language training.
In a couple of weeks, we’ll go back to Kyiv and have a mid-training conference for a couple of days, then have a 4 day site visit. I’m super excited to find out how far away my apartment is from work, as work is right downtown and I’d be really lucky to be less than 20 minutes from work. I could be as far away as 45 minutes via public transport. The metro here is quite nice and there are many marshrutkas (mini-vans that cost about $.25)
Back to Sunday, when we returned Brovary and the apartment at about 11pm, Helena was waiting up to find out all about our evening. I changed and then came out to find a small meal waiting, along with the ubiquitous chai (tea). Helena had made amazing blini (crepes) w/ a sweet cream cheese filling and also blini with grated apple. There was also a plate of something I at first thought was sautéed mushrooms and I began to worry, as I hate mushrooms. Then I realized it was some kind of meat and it didn’t smell good. I took a tentative bite and realized it was liver. I tried subterfuge by eating the blini, but soon Ira was asking me if I liked the other thing. I took a deep breath and said, “not so much.” I asked what it was, thinking it to be some kind of liver. At first Ira said chicken, then asked for the dictionary.
After a moment’s dictionary perusal, she said, “No, it’s pigeon liver.” Even though I felt guilty for not being grateful for whatever they give me to eat, I must admit to being happy I still haven’t eaten pigeon liver. I think maybe it’s a poor translation, and really it’s game hen or something, or maybe that’s what I tell myself so that I feel better at night. My cluster mate Larry asked somewhat seriously if I thought it was free-range pigeon.
Joking aside, people here live very close to near-poverty and as such, they eat what they have. Not eating something because they don’t like it isn’t a luxury many have. I sometimes forget this fact because people tend to be so well dressed and kempt and because I’m living in a relatively affluent suburb. Even so, there are countless babushka selling something on the street, sunflowers, pickles, gnarled beets and they do this to survive. There are also many babushkas begging and this is difficult to see.
It was a fowl day, full of birds one finds at the park, on stage and on the table.
Ring a death knoll for hot water: the word on the Brovary streets is that it will be officially turned off on April 15. Hmm, US tax day and the end of hot water. I feel lucky that at least I’ve had hot water during the cold weather this past month and at least the temperature is heating up now. Sort of. Anyway, I’ll take it like a Peace Corps Volunteer and pretend I got some really hard assignment instead of the Posh Corps like I did. Sponge baths aren’t so awful, right? Right?
Tonight, the babushka downstairs who is somehow related to Ira and Helena came up to ask me to try to find her friend that lives in America. She’s told me about this person every time we meet and tonight brought up a letter from 1999 w/ a name and address. With Ira translating, she asked me to find her, then maybe see if someone in America could phone her. I told her I’d try to find her phone no. and/or address online first. She hasn’t gotten a reply from this friend since ’99 and she wants to try to find the friend or her daughter to find out what happened. I tried not to promise too much, but it would be cool if I could find an email for the daughter, who apparently is a journalist.
Dobre noch - good night…
28 March 2003
The weather has begun to break - warmish and sunny, the mud slowly drying and children, birds, street animals of all ilk and the babushkas are beginning to come more alive. I keep hearing how different the country is in the summer and I’m beginning to believe it. Indoor space is at such a premium here, so when the weather is nice, people break free to enjoy time outdoors.
I’m just about at one month in-country. Language is progressing, though slower than I’d like, but then sometimes I feel good that I can put together a slow sentence at all, considering that this is a completely new and not particularly easy language. I’m also trying hard to speak with people even if I don’t know all the vocabulary that I need - which is most of the time… :-D
Our cluster is beginning our project and we are working out finding translation help and also setting up meetings with the Unemployment Center that we’ll work with. The center has asked for help to set up a training workshop and we’re going to find out what kind of training and then work to teach their staff to do the training so that they could continue after we leave in 2 months or so.
It’s funny because in some ways three months seems like such a long time for training, but I know it’s precious little, both for our internship and also studying language. I asked my LCF yesterday if I could get more work and also for tips on working outside of class. I’m so motivated right now to study Russian and really want to take advantage of having such a good teacher and also these intensive classes. She was super responsive and already has made some changes to our class to accommodate my request and I’ve spent some hours organizing grammar and vocab to do self study.
Yesterday, after class Ira and I planned to go for a walk. I came back to their apartment, and changed into “sporty” clothes, as Ira put it. She got dolled up as usual, which is the norm here and what I’m beginning to do as well. “Dolled up” means putting on makeup, which varies from a subtle, put-together look to full-on “I’m using every product Mary Kay creates” faces, having one’s hair at least be kempt if not styled and wearing pressed, clean clothes and shined shoes. Ira falls in the former category and always looks and smells nice before leaving the house.
However, I looked “sporty” and didn’t have on my long, black wool coat that fits in so well here, and for the first time since I arrived, really felt out of place and that people were looking at me. It was interesting and made me realize how little of that I’ve experienced here, especially contrasted with Costa Rica, where I was constantly being pointed at, out, etc. I guess that’s the advantage to being white in a homogeneous, white society. I understand that volunteers of different ethnicities, but particularly African Americans, can experience much prejudice and hassle in Ukraine.
When we returned from our turn around town and the nice park in town, the neighbor babushka sitting at the entrance to the building stopped Ira and I. Between my lack of understanding and her eating those ubiquitous, black sunflower seeds, I got the words “American” and “militia” (which is what they call the local police). After we got into the apartment, I asked Ira what babushka had said. Apparently, some police officers had come by the apartment to investigate the American living here.
We met with the mayor, head of the city militia and several city officials on Monday and all of us have been registered with the city militia, per custom and law for foreigners. Apparently, police officers visited all of the volunteer’s home stay apartments yesterday. Only one of us was home and he said they were quite nice, but didn’t speak English of course and he didn’t understand their Russian, so the interview was brief. He found out from his neighbor that they interviewed the neighbor and asked lots of questions, some of which were making sure he was being taken care of by the family.
It is difficult to understand from an American perspective why the police might concern themselves with such a trifle as Peace Corps volunteers living among them, but I think some of it comes from a mentality that goes back to Soviet times. In discussing this with our LCF, we found out that many Ukrainians sort of assume their phone could be tapped, as so many were before during Soviet times. As such they don’t discuss anything sensitive at all, such as money, being away from their apartment for a vacation, etc.
In any case (Mom - this is for you!) the visit poses no danger and not even an annoyance. The two LCF’s in Brovary with us are meeting again with the militia to clear up any questions they have.
This Sunday, Ira and I are going to see Swan Lake at the National Theater. It should be lovely. I’m excited for an outing! I’m going to try to arrange a trip soon with a friend to stay overnight in Kyiv and just have a day and a half of non-home stay time. Just a few hours. That or I really could use an afternoon outdoors away from cars and concrete. I’ll have to figure out easy ways to accomplish this when I live in Kyiv!
I’m just about at one month in-country. Language is progressing, though slower than I’d like, but then sometimes I feel good that I can put together a slow sentence at all, considering that this is a completely new and not particularly easy language. I’m also trying hard to speak with people even if I don’t know all the vocabulary that I need - which is most of the time… :-D
Our cluster is beginning our project and we are working out finding translation help and also setting up meetings with the Unemployment Center that we’ll work with. The center has asked for help to set up a training workshop and we’re going to find out what kind of training and then work to teach their staff to do the training so that they could continue after we leave in 2 months or so.
It’s funny because in some ways three months seems like such a long time for training, but I know it’s precious little, both for our internship and also studying language. I asked my LCF yesterday if I could get more work and also for tips on working outside of class. I’m so motivated right now to study Russian and really want to take advantage of having such a good teacher and also these intensive classes. She was super responsive and already has made some changes to our class to accommodate my request and I’ve spent some hours organizing grammar and vocab to do self study.
Yesterday, after class Ira and I planned to go for a walk. I came back to their apartment, and changed into “sporty” clothes, as Ira put it. She got dolled up as usual, which is the norm here and what I’m beginning to do as well. “Dolled up” means putting on makeup, which varies from a subtle, put-together look to full-on “I’m using every product Mary Kay creates” faces, having one’s hair at least be kempt if not styled and wearing pressed, clean clothes and shined shoes. Ira falls in the former category and always looks and smells nice before leaving the house.
However, I looked “sporty” and didn’t have on my long, black wool coat that fits in so well here, and for the first time since I arrived, really felt out of place and that people were looking at me. It was interesting and made me realize how little of that I’ve experienced here, especially contrasted with Costa Rica, where I was constantly being pointed at, out, etc. I guess that’s the advantage to being white in a homogeneous, white society. I understand that volunteers of different ethnicities, but particularly African Americans, can experience much prejudice and hassle in Ukraine.
When we returned from our turn around town and the nice park in town, the neighbor babushka sitting at the entrance to the building stopped Ira and I. Between my lack of understanding and her eating those ubiquitous, black sunflower seeds, I got the words “American” and “militia” (which is what they call the local police). After we got into the apartment, I asked Ira what babushka had said. Apparently, some police officers had come by the apartment to investigate the American living here.
We met with the mayor, head of the city militia and several city officials on Monday and all of us have been registered with the city militia, per custom and law for foreigners. Apparently, police officers visited all of the volunteer’s home stay apartments yesterday. Only one of us was home and he said they were quite nice, but didn’t speak English of course and he didn’t understand their Russian, so the interview was brief. He found out from his neighbor that they interviewed the neighbor and asked lots of questions, some of which were making sure he was being taken care of by the family.
It is difficult to understand from an American perspective why the police might concern themselves with such a trifle as Peace Corps volunteers living among them, but I think some of it comes from a mentality that goes back to Soviet times. In discussing this with our LCF, we found out that many Ukrainians sort of assume their phone could be tapped, as so many were before during Soviet times. As such they don’t discuss anything sensitive at all, such as money, being away from their apartment for a vacation, etc.
In any case (Mom - this is for you!) the visit poses no danger and not even an annoyance. The two LCF’s in Brovary with us are meeting again with the militia to clear up any questions they have.
This Sunday, Ira and I are going to see Swan Lake at the National Theater. It should be lovely. I’m excited for an outing! I’m going to try to arrange a trip soon with a friend to stay overnight in Kyiv and just have a day and a half of non-home stay time. Just a few hours. That or I really could use an afternoon outdoors away from cars and concrete. I’ll have to figure out easy ways to accomplish this when I live in Kyiv!
25 March 2003
21 mar 03
Today is the Academy Awards, or at least will be when it’s nighttime in CA. We’ll see them tomorrow and I’m excited for that…
Today was full of small excitements and excursions. First of all, I finally felt good enough to go to the gym. I went by myself and it was a good realization that I know so little Russian. There were of course nice Ukrainians who spoke decent English who showed me around and I got a good workout. The gym is in a brick building and the interior is quite nice, exposed brick and lots of windows. There was a serious aerobics class going on that I got the schedule for, so that will be fun to try. I think if I go regularly and try to talk to people, I’ll meet some of them and practice Russian.
I laugh to think about how excited I was to go to the gym and also for my next outing, shopping w/ Ira. After the gym, I showered, dressed and put on the makeup I’m accustoming myself to putting on before leaving the house. It’s not a lot, but certainly more than I would wear on a regular basis in Boulder…
We first went to Spar, the large, new supermarket that has Brovary abuzz. Spar even is putting out a weekly circular, a new idea here. Spar is a large store, with wide aisles and lots of selection. There’s another supermarket named Forum about 200 metres from Spar, and I actually prefer it. The prices are almost the same and both stores have second floors devoted to small shops w/ cosmetics, clothing, toy guns and interesting chatchkas, such as figurines of naked ladies and fish.
Which leads me to my first digression today, the prevalence of nekkid ladies. The gym had a poster of a sweaty, topless girl, titled, “Absolute Fitness.” Some of the tabloid newspapers have topless babes and Ukrainian Cosmo this month had a pictorial of men’s and women’s heads and unclothed bodies, with a quiz to see if one could match the head w/ the body. Torsos and tushes only, not full frontal.
I don’t really have anything to say besides that observation. I am unused to so much nudity, but it doesn’t particularly bother me. The violence in the Russian soap operas and the reality TV shows does upset me, but not the skin.
Back to the outings of the day – I was really sort of scarily excited to go shopping with Ira, in particular to the bazaar (open air market that sells fruit, vegetables, clothes, live fish, chickens of questionable origin, flowers fresh and in colors not found in nature, basically everything). I realized that I sort of made sure I looked nice to go shopping. I guess I find it scary as I write this for an American audience because I see how different my life is at the moment and how basic it is. How excited I get when I speak correctly in Russian or how accomplished I feel when I do something small like ask how much something costs and understand. Scale is different here.
The bazaar was fine, normalna in local parlance, and only one thing was weird for me, the woman selling fish swimming around in bloody water. I realize I am such a wimpy meat eater. I also think that it’s ok to chose how one buys meat or fish and that one doesn’t have to support merchants that sell fish in such a way.
Ira hates the bazaar, she tells me that she finds it dirty and she’s short spoken to some of the sellers. In general, I think that she wants very much to be part of a more modern Ukraine and that things that seem old fashioned or not 1st world aren’t to her liking. This judgment, of course, 10 days after having met her.
Final digression: I realized the other day that I’ve been saying the word for “five” instead of the casual greeting word, “hi.” They slightly similar in Russian, verrrrryyyyy slightly and this realization explains so many things to me, the least of which is the lack of response I’ve been getting.
Today is the Academy Awards, or at least will be when it’s nighttime in CA. We’ll see them tomorrow and I’m excited for that…
Today was full of small excitements and excursions. First of all, I finally felt good enough to go to the gym. I went by myself and it was a good realization that I know so little Russian. There were of course nice Ukrainians who spoke decent English who showed me around and I got a good workout. The gym is in a brick building and the interior is quite nice, exposed brick and lots of windows. There was a serious aerobics class going on that I got the schedule for, so that will be fun to try. I think if I go regularly and try to talk to people, I’ll meet some of them and practice Russian.
I laugh to think about how excited I was to go to the gym and also for my next outing, shopping w/ Ira. After the gym, I showered, dressed and put on the makeup I’m accustoming myself to putting on before leaving the house. It’s not a lot, but certainly more than I would wear on a regular basis in Boulder…
We first went to Spar, the large, new supermarket that has Brovary abuzz. Spar even is putting out a weekly circular, a new idea here. Spar is a large store, with wide aisles and lots of selection. There’s another supermarket named Forum about 200 metres from Spar, and I actually prefer it. The prices are almost the same and both stores have second floors devoted to small shops w/ cosmetics, clothing, toy guns and interesting chatchkas, such as figurines of naked ladies and fish.
Which leads me to my first digression today, the prevalence of nekkid ladies. The gym had a poster of a sweaty, topless girl, titled, “Absolute Fitness.” Some of the tabloid newspapers have topless babes and Ukrainian Cosmo this month had a pictorial of men’s and women’s heads and unclothed bodies, with a quiz to see if one could match the head w/ the body. Torsos and tushes only, not full frontal.
I don’t really have anything to say besides that observation. I am unused to so much nudity, but it doesn’t particularly bother me. The violence in the Russian soap operas and the reality TV shows does upset me, but not the skin.
Back to the outings of the day – I was really sort of scarily excited to go shopping with Ira, in particular to the bazaar (open air market that sells fruit, vegetables, clothes, live fish, chickens of questionable origin, flowers fresh and in colors not found in nature, basically everything). I realized that I sort of made sure I looked nice to go shopping. I guess I find it scary as I write this for an American audience because I see how different my life is at the moment and how basic it is. How excited I get when I speak correctly in Russian or how accomplished I feel when I do something small like ask how much something costs and understand. Scale is different here.
The bazaar was fine, normalna in local parlance, and only one thing was weird for me, the woman selling fish swimming around in bloody water. I realize I am such a wimpy meat eater. I also think that it’s ok to chose how one buys meat or fish and that one doesn’t have to support merchants that sell fish in such a way.
Ira hates the bazaar, she tells me that she finds it dirty and she’s short spoken to some of the sellers. In general, I think that she wants very much to be part of a more modern Ukraine and that things that seem old fashioned or not 1st world aren’t to her liking. This judgment, of course, 10 days after having met her.
Final digression: I realized the other day that I’ve been saying the word for “five” instead of the casual greeting word, “hi.” They slightly similar in Russian, verrrrryyyyy slightly and this realization explains so many things to me, the least of which is the lack of response I’ve been getting.
20 mar 03
I look at my nails. They are painted my favourite red and etched with an intricate design in white with silver accents. Ira, my host sister, painstakingly painted them, using a sewing needle and small brush for the design.
I look at my pretty nails and feel guilty for not enjoying Ira’s company today, for wanting to go into my room, really her room, and close the door. I feel guilty for having this stupid computer, I feel guilty for using their medicine, I feel guilty for having nice things, so I am constantly bringing things out to share. I don’t only do this to assuage my guilt, but partly. I feel guilty for my existence and my utter luck of being born American, white, into a family that loves me, etc. Ira is white, born into a family that loves her, getting and education, survived illness from Chernobyl.
I also feel awful because Helena and Ira are both a little sick from my cold. Helena is coughing and looks poorly. Of course, this could mean that some of the food onslaught would stop, although
I look at the intricate design of these nails and feel unworthy of such attention and care. I also am wishing that I’d only eaten ½ of the pelminiky (pork dumplings) w/ butter that was tonight’s dinner.
I so wanted to veg out and watch TV, try to glean the English underneath the Russian dubbed made for TV movie. I wanted to read Russian Cosmo w/o Ira pointing out every page, parroting her good English and careful Russian for me.
I’m not always up for being on, for dealing w/ the language, the constant hanging out, the lack of personal time. Communicating that while I thoroughly enjoy the cooking, I absolutely cannot eat another pelminiky. Please could I have yogurt and fruit instead of chicken soup for breakfast.
I’m reaching the stage where some novelty has worn off and this is where dedication, time off, persistent learning and staying out of ill-thought-out routines will help me get on. I need to allow myself to close the door when I need to and also challenge myself to socialize spontaneously.
I also need to get super regimented about my health. Being sick this past week has really emphasized this.
I look at my nails. They are painted my favourite red and etched with an intricate design in white with silver accents. Ira, my host sister, painstakingly painted them, using a sewing needle and small brush for the design.
I look at my pretty nails and feel guilty for not enjoying Ira’s company today, for wanting to go into my room, really her room, and close the door. I feel guilty for having this stupid computer, I feel guilty for using their medicine, I feel guilty for having nice things, so I am constantly bringing things out to share. I don’t only do this to assuage my guilt, but partly. I feel guilty for my existence and my utter luck of being born American, white, into a family that loves me, etc. Ira is white, born into a family that loves her, getting and education, survived illness from Chernobyl.
I also feel awful because Helena and Ira are both a little sick from my cold. Helena is coughing and looks poorly. Of course, this could mean that some of the food onslaught would stop, although
I look at the intricate design of these nails and feel unworthy of such attention and care. I also am wishing that I’d only eaten ½ of the pelminiky (pork dumplings) w/ butter that was tonight’s dinner.
I so wanted to veg out and watch TV, try to glean the English underneath the Russian dubbed made for TV movie. I wanted to read Russian Cosmo w/o Ira pointing out every page, parroting her good English and careful Russian for me.
I’m not always up for being on, for dealing w/ the language, the constant hanging out, the lack of personal time. Communicating that while I thoroughly enjoy the cooking, I absolutely cannot eat another pelminiky. Please could I have yogurt and fruit instead of chicken soup for breakfast.
I’m reaching the stage where some novelty has worn off and this is where dedication, time off, persistent learning and staying out of ill-thought-out routines will help me get on. I need to allow myself to close the door when I need to and also challenge myself to socialize spontaneously.
I also need to get super regimented about my health. Being sick this past week has really emphasized this.
A Trip to the Big City 16 March 2003
On Sunday I went to Kyiv w/ Ira, my host sister. She took me around to some pretty areas of the city and it is still amazing that I might live there. The metro here is deep underground and riding it involves taking a steep escalator that freaks me out. That combined with the fast speed of said steep escalator makes for an adventurous ride. Did I mention the crowds? Taking this escalator was an exercise in deep breathing, but the metro is clean and normal by my standards.
In Kyiv, we walked along a major street that is closed off on the weekend, the Khreshcatyk and also to the outside of a couple of churches and along a cobbled street that has a major tourist market. There are many old looking buildings and several major renovated churches and I’m excited to explore it ruther.
When we returned to Brovary, we went to a party that was for all of the PCT's (Peace Corps Trainees - perhaps much like the military, we have many acronyms) in our cluster (why did they name it cluster? I keep thinking of squirrels - is that from a cereal??) We met in the basement of one of these gargantuan apartment buildings here. We 7 PCT's were seated at the head of a long table heavily laden with food and drink.
One old tradition in Ukraine is to greet guests w/ an elaborate loaf of bread with pretty decorations on top and salt, both of which the guests eat. We were entertained by the musical stylings of one of the host mothers who performs Ukrainian folk songs with a group while wearing traditional embroidered dress. I kept thinking how we had traveled so far and how we were now, I don't know, rewarded for our efforts. Not so much by the food and music, but rather from all the effort that these people make for us. It is so hard still to fathom that these people take us in as strangers and treat us as honored guests, all on no merit of our own. I am humbled every day to be here, to be treated as I am. We are tremendously privileged to have this opportunity and I thank especially the American taxpayers for supporting us.
Much merriment, toasting and drinking of homemade wine and vodka ensued, from which I already have a headache (the wine, not the merriment per se). There may have also been dancing to loud Ukrainian traditional songs translated to pop music and a poor rendition sung of "America the Beautiful" but I will never tell our cluster's secrets.
On Sunday I went to Kyiv w/ Ira, my host sister. She took me around to some pretty areas of the city and it is still amazing that I might live there. The metro here is deep underground and riding it involves taking a steep escalator that freaks me out. That combined with the fast speed of said steep escalator makes for an adventurous ride. Did I mention the crowds? Taking this escalator was an exercise in deep breathing, but the metro is clean and normal by my standards.
In Kyiv, we walked along a major street that is closed off on the weekend, the Khreshcatyk and also to the outside of a couple of churches and along a cobbled street that has a major tourist market. There are many old looking buildings and several major renovated churches and I’m excited to explore it ruther.
When we returned to Brovary, we went to a party that was for all of the PCT's (Peace Corps Trainees - perhaps much like the military, we have many acronyms) in our cluster (why did they name it cluster? I keep thinking of squirrels - is that from a cereal??) We met in the basement of one of these gargantuan apartment buildings here. We 7 PCT's were seated at the head of a long table heavily laden with food and drink.
One old tradition in Ukraine is to greet guests w/ an elaborate loaf of bread with pretty decorations on top and salt, both of which the guests eat. We were entertained by the musical stylings of one of the host mothers who performs Ukrainian folk songs with a group while wearing traditional embroidered dress. I kept thinking how we had traveled so far and how we were now, I don't know, rewarded for our efforts. Not so much by the food and music, but rather from all the effort that these people make for us. It is so hard still to fathom that these people take us in as strangers and treat us as honored guests, all on no merit of our own. I am humbled every day to be here, to be treated as I am. We are tremendously privileged to have this opportunity and I thank especially the American taxpayers for supporting us.
Much merriment, toasting and drinking of homemade wine and vodka ensued, from which I already have a headache (the wine, not the merriment per se). There may have also been dancing to loud Ukrainian traditional songs translated to pop music and a poor rendition sung of "America the Beautiful" but I will never tell our cluster's secrets.
The Way to a New Home -- 12 March 2003
I am away from everything and everyone that I know, in a land where I don’t know the language. I take 2 buses (called marshrutkas and really they’re mini-vans) and 2 metros, it is raining and getting dark. As I get off the last marshrutka a group of women and children are waiting for me, and from the group, 2 come forward to collect I. I stammer my prepared greeting (my name is ____, very glad to meet you) and they guide me through the rain and mud puddles to their apartment building. They are a mother and daughter (Helena and Ira, respectively) and are bundled up so much in the cold rain that I can’t really see their faces well in the cloudy afternoon and waning light.
Once inside, I remember to take off my shoes at the door, as is the custom. A beautiful Siamese cat begins mewing underfoot and I get out another phrase, “I love cats.” The mother hurriedly calls the daughter and the daughter brings out a piece of paper, from which she reads, “The cat is very dangerous and vicious.” Ok, will remember to leave the cat alone. I remember my solemn pledge to stay out of Ukrainian hospitals.
Helena and Ira show me to my new room, which I ascertain is Ira’s room, as she still has some books and personal effects in it. The room is spacious and as is customary here, has a pretty Oriental rug hung on the wall and one on the floor. I have a bed, a desk and what they call a “skof,” which is a set of cabinets and shelves that seem to be omnipresent in homes here. Despite all the warnings about how small Ukrainian apartments are, or perhaps because of them, I am pleasantly surprised at the room in the apartment.
Ira begins to speak English and tells me to wash up for dinner. I change clothes to something non-muddy and brush my hair, trying to spruce up for dinner. They set a table in the living/tv room with a pretty white table cloth. I break out my first gift for them, a box of nice chocolates. It is very important to never, ever come to someone’s house w/o at least a box of chocolates. I have homemade soap as another gift, but that is deep w/in a bag, so it will have to wait.
We sit down to a table full of dishes. Pickled tomatoes, cucumbers and red peppers, mashed potatoes, some kind of meat, cabbage rolls stuffed w/ rice and meat (golubets), cookies for later and another box of chocolates. There is also a bottle of champagne, juice and water. Helena opens the champagne and makes a toast to friendship, which Ira translates. I try to make a toast saying that my parents thank them for taking me in, but am unsure how it translates. The dinner is marked w/ some moments of ackward silences, but generally nice and I have to work hard not to stare at the TV, which is on.
Before going to bed, they take me around the house, showing me how the bathroom and toilet work and telling me that it’s ok that the doors don’t fully close, since we’re all women. I’m thrilled beyond belief that there’s hot water! So far no cold showers.
The next day is a half day for me for class, and I feel a little funny waking up and being in their house while they’re at work. I worry that they are worried, worried that I might light the gas stove incorrectly or forget to lock the door or go through their things.
Not to worry, for the cat, Dulcinea, watches my every move, following me around the house, hissing at me if I get too close to her perch. Definitely will never, ever pet this cat. It is psychotic for sure.
The next night, I come home after class and running some errands. Ira and Helena ask me what I did and more importantly, where I ate lunch. I tell them how I had some valrenneky (dumplings) at a café w/ my teacher and cluster mates. They tell me that I should have lunch everyday at their apartment. We were told that we wouldn’t be fed lunch and are given an allowence each week for lunch and bottled water, but I soon find out from my other cluster mates that no one’s family’s are letting them eat out.
I find over the next few days that I must be careful what foods I say I like or careful how I compliment a dish, b/c it may directly affect our menu. I find that Helena grows increasingly determined to feed me 5 helpings each meal and complains via Ira that I don’t eat enough. This causes chortles from me, as it might some of you. I learn how to say “That’s enough, thank you.” Helena feigns incomprehension. I repeat or leave some food on my plate to back up my point. I stop eating lunch b/c it’s really so much food to have three meals. Who am I kidding? If I come home before dinner, I get fed a whole other meal with tea.
I am a stranger that this family has adopted as someone to feed and worry over. If I leave w/o a hat, Helena will get me to carry it. I have gotten sick – I wanted you to know how they are caring for me. I actually have a bad-sounding cough and a sinus infection, so my symptoms are rather loud and dramatic. Ira has been bringing me cough syrup, losanges and when Helena got home tonight, they came w/ nasal spray and the thermometer. I was grateful that they showed me to put it into my armpit before I put it in my mouth!
There’s also a chapter in my Russian language book on health, so I was able to tell them in Russian that I didn’t have a temperature, which was exciting for me. It’s amazing how doing what interests one does for one’s attitude. Instead of feeling homesick and sorry for myself for being a bit ill, I am excited to learn new vocabulary! :-)
Joking aside, I am trying to slow down a bit, which is difficult due to aforementioned enthusiasm. I did phone the Peace Corps medical officer to describe my symptoms, as I’ve never had this particular kind of cough and he recommended rest, fluid and that if I don’t improve in the next 2 days, that I come to Kyiv for them to check me out.
Now some more about Ira and Helena. Perhaps the most humbling fact for me is that they are Chernobyl survivors. I’m pretty sure they lost their father/husband to illness from it. They were living in a village 50 km. from Chernobyl and didn’t move until about 8 years ago. Ira briefly mentioned that they were ill, but then said that was before and now they’re fine. I’m curious, but am waiting to get to know them better before asking too many questions. Ira is 21 and teaches political science and philosophy at a middle school and also is studying at a university in Kyiv. She commutes each day to do either one or both. Helena does some kind of work that I don’t really understand with pensioners, or retired people who are living on now miniscule pensions from Soviet times. As in any economy, they are perhaps the most vulnerable to the vagaries of economy and change to a market economy.
Ira aspires to be upwardly mobile and sees the way to do this via education, something that is very easy to identify with. The Peace Corps training thus far and much of my independent study about Ukraine prepared me to be faced with many challenges in terms of outlook on life and change. So far, perhaps because I haven’t strayed far from Kyiv, I haven’t experienced very much of this. Oh, right, perhaps it’s also b/c I don’t speak enough Russian nor Ukrainian to understand the cultural difference!
I am away from everything and everyone that I know, in a land where I don’t know the language. I take 2 buses (called marshrutkas and really they’re mini-vans) and 2 metros, it is raining and getting dark. As I get off the last marshrutka a group of women and children are waiting for me, and from the group, 2 come forward to collect I. I stammer my prepared greeting (my name is ____, very glad to meet you) and they guide me through the rain and mud puddles to their apartment building. They are a mother and daughter (Helena and Ira, respectively) and are bundled up so much in the cold rain that I can’t really see their faces well in the cloudy afternoon and waning light.
Once inside, I remember to take off my shoes at the door, as is the custom. A beautiful Siamese cat begins mewing underfoot and I get out another phrase, “I love cats.” The mother hurriedly calls the daughter and the daughter brings out a piece of paper, from which she reads, “The cat is very dangerous and vicious.” Ok, will remember to leave the cat alone. I remember my solemn pledge to stay out of Ukrainian hospitals.
Helena and Ira show me to my new room, which I ascertain is Ira’s room, as she still has some books and personal effects in it. The room is spacious and as is customary here, has a pretty Oriental rug hung on the wall and one on the floor. I have a bed, a desk and what they call a “skof,” which is a set of cabinets and shelves that seem to be omnipresent in homes here. Despite all the warnings about how small Ukrainian apartments are, or perhaps because of them, I am pleasantly surprised at the room in the apartment.
Ira begins to speak English and tells me to wash up for dinner. I change clothes to something non-muddy and brush my hair, trying to spruce up for dinner. They set a table in the living/tv room with a pretty white table cloth. I break out my first gift for them, a box of nice chocolates. It is very important to never, ever come to someone’s house w/o at least a box of chocolates. I have homemade soap as another gift, but that is deep w/in a bag, so it will have to wait.
We sit down to a table full of dishes. Pickled tomatoes, cucumbers and red peppers, mashed potatoes, some kind of meat, cabbage rolls stuffed w/ rice and meat (golubets), cookies for later and another box of chocolates. There is also a bottle of champagne, juice and water. Helena opens the champagne and makes a toast to friendship, which Ira translates. I try to make a toast saying that my parents thank them for taking me in, but am unsure how it translates. The dinner is marked w/ some moments of ackward silences, but generally nice and I have to work hard not to stare at the TV, which is on.
Before going to bed, they take me around the house, showing me how the bathroom and toilet work and telling me that it’s ok that the doors don’t fully close, since we’re all women. I’m thrilled beyond belief that there’s hot water! So far no cold showers.
The next day is a half day for me for class, and I feel a little funny waking up and being in their house while they’re at work. I worry that they are worried, worried that I might light the gas stove incorrectly or forget to lock the door or go through their things.
Not to worry, for the cat, Dulcinea, watches my every move, following me around the house, hissing at me if I get too close to her perch. Definitely will never, ever pet this cat. It is psychotic for sure.
The next night, I come home after class and running some errands. Ira and Helena ask me what I did and more importantly, where I ate lunch. I tell them how I had some valrenneky (dumplings) at a café w/ my teacher and cluster mates. They tell me that I should have lunch everyday at their apartment. We were told that we wouldn’t be fed lunch and are given an allowence each week for lunch and bottled water, but I soon find out from my other cluster mates that no one’s family’s are letting them eat out.
I find over the next few days that I must be careful what foods I say I like or careful how I compliment a dish, b/c it may directly affect our menu. I find that Helena grows increasingly determined to feed me 5 helpings each meal and complains via Ira that I don’t eat enough. This causes chortles from me, as it might some of you. I learn how to say “That’s enough, thank you.” Helena feigns incomprehension. I repeat or leave some food on my plate to back up my point. I stop eating lunch b/c it’s really so much food to have three meals. Who am I kidding? If I come home before dinner, I get fed a whole other meal with tea.
I am a stranger that this family has adopted as someone to feed and worry over. If I leave w/o a hat, Helena will get me to carry it. I have gotten sick – I wanted you to know how they are caring for me. I actually have a bad-sounding cough and a sinus infection, so my symptoms are rather loud and dramatic. Ira has been bringing me cough syrup, losanges and when Helena got home tonight, they came w/ nasal spray and the thermometer. I was grateful that they showed me to put it into my armpit before I put it in my mouth!
There’s also a chapter in my Russian language book on health, so I was able to tell them in Russian that I didn’t have a temperature, which was exciting for me. It’s amazing how doing what interests one does for one’s attitude. Instead of feeling homesick and sorry for myself for being a bit ill, I am excited to learn new vocabulary! :-)
Joking aside, I am trying to slow down a bit, which is difficult due to aforementioned enthusiasm. I did phone the Peace Corps medical officer to describe my symptoms, as I’ve never had this particular kind of cough and he recommended rest, fluid and that if I don’t improve in the next 2 days, that I come to Kyiv for them to check me out.
Now some more about Ira and Helena. Perhaps the most humbling fact for me is that they are Chernobyl survivors. I’m pretty sure they lost their father/husband to illness from it. They were living in a village 50 km. from Chernobyl and didn’t move until about 8 years ago. Ira briefly mentioned that they were ill, but then said that was before and now they’re fine. I’m curious, but am waiting to get to know them better before asking too many questions. Ira is 21 and teaches political science and philosophy at a middle school and also is studying at a university in Kyiv. She commutes each day to do either one or both. Helena does some kind of work that I don’t really understand with pensioners, or retired people who are living on now miniscule pensions from Soviet times. As in any economy, they are perhaps the most vulnerable to the vagaries of economy and change to a market economy.
Ira aspires to be upwardly mobile and sees the way to do this via education, something that is very easy to identify with. The Peace Corps training thus far and much of my independent study about Ukraine prepared me to be faced with many challenges in terms of outlook on life and change. So far, perhaps because I haven’t strayed far from Kyiv, I haven’t experienced very much of this. Oh, right, perhaps it’s also b/c I don’t speak enough Russian nor Ukrainian to understand the cultural difference!
Blog for the dates of 6-11 March 2003
We began our language training, technical training and medical exams (read, many needle pokes) the next day. We also had many interviews to try to fill in information about us for the decision making process to place us at our permanent sites.
This week was a surprisingly (to me, anyway) difficult time. I kept thinking that it should be so much easier and shouldn’t feel so emotional, as I was in a nice hotel-like situation, surrounded by Americans, being fed three square meals. Probably I was decompressing from the last few days in Colorado, all the logistics, all the work, all the goodbyes, all the mourning and loss. Ugh. That sucked, but I know was a necessary evil.
The bright sides were many: the interesting and wonderful grocery store nearby, our amazing Language and Cultural Facilitators (LCF’s), the interesting seminars about Ukrainian culture, economy, government and current status, slowly being able to read signs in Cyrillic, trying out Ukrainian champagne. Checking out the expo grounds each morning. The party we had the last night for our LCF’s in the lobby of our dorm. Meeting people, hanging out, etc.
After a week of this, we were scheduled to first find out what site and city we’d been assigned to then leave for our clusters for the remaining 3 months of training. “Clusters” means that we’re broken into groups of 3-5 people, each assigned a host family to live with, and each cluster has one LCF to teach whichever language is requested by our site, e.g. either Ukrainian or Russian.
The day before we were to depart for clusters, we were gathered in the afternoon in a large auditorium at the PiGy to find out our site and locations. The auditorium stage was laid out with paper to form a not-to-scale map of Ukraine, with major cities indicated by pieces of paper.
The Peace Corps has divided the country into regions not along oblast (like states) lines. I think there are 6-7 regions per the Peace Corps. In any case, the PC directors of these regions were there. Our training director, Andrey, read out our names, then the regional director for our site read out the organization name and city. It was rather like a game show and there was a keen sense of anticipation and nervousness among us.
I was really, really, really shocked when my name was read out attached to “Kyiv.” I stood on the stage in awed silence, growing increasingly upset as I read the sheet of paper that had a description of the organization I’d been assigned to.
Even though I knew from our training that little of what was written on the sheet of paper would really be true in our experience at the organization, I still was quite upset. The organization, the Consortium for the Enhancement of Management Education, works to promote increased and standardized business education in Ukraine. It seemed like a very generic, business assignment and I couldn’t tell at all what part of my experience was related to business education. Further, how could I learn Russian if I was in Kyiv? My paper listed the fact that all the staff members spoke English and that the director was American.
Everything seemed so contrary to what I’d been preparing myself for: a mid-sized city away from the international, urbane capitol, in a situation where I’d absolutely HAVE to learn Russian/Ukrainian, somewhat isolated from Americans or other expatriates. How could I have this super-posh assignment and really have a true Peace Corps experience? I was going to be a complete lazy, English speaking moron, working for a business education organization.
Thus, I had my first proper meltdown. It was somewhat public, as I have never been skilled at hiding my emotions. Some comments about how my meltdown was received. The LCF’s were around, probably on purpose as I imagine I’m not the first PCT to meltdown at this stage. When I was trying hard to get out of the building to compose myself in private, a couple stopped me with concern. That was lovely, despite my utter incoherence at the time. I also was really touched by how supportive some of my fellow trainees were, especially the ones that were really excited by the page of information they received.
I did get to my room, drank some water, tried to calm down. I went to the session the Kyiv regional manager was having to orient us. I was still really upset and couldn’t speak to anyone without crying.
After the session, I left and soon realized that I needed to talk to someone about my concerns, because otherwise I was going to *really* freak out. Peace Corps is pretty touchy-feely for a government organization and encourages “reaching out.” However, I really hate being very teary in public and further really hate to complain about things that don’t feel justified, so it was difficult.
I was able to talk privately with a Peace Corps employee who’s helping with the Kyiv region and he was not touchy-feely, but very helpful. I needed facts mainly and also a bit of time to wrap my head around this concept of working in the capitol and for an American-lead organization.
He was a skillful salesman, and helped me to see the potential in the site placement and also told me that it was a high-profile job that could give me excellent contacts within the international development community. He could have sold me prime farmland in Chernobyl Zone 1 at that point, but it calmed me and allowed my reasoning functions to resume and my body to leave the stress zone.
We began our language training, technical training and medical exams (read, many needle pokes) the next day. We also had many interviews to try to fill in information about us for the decision making process to place us at our permanent sites.
This week was a surprisingly (to me, anyway) difficult time. I kept thinking that it should be so much easier and shouldn’t feel so emotional, as I was in a nice hotel-like situation, surrounded by Americans, being fed three square meals. Probably I was decompressing from the last few days in Colorado, all the logistics, all the work, all the goodbyes, all the mourning and loss. Ugh. That sucked, but I know was a necessary evil.
The bright sides were many: the interesting and wonderful grocery store nearby, our amazing Language and Cultural Facilitators (LCF’s), the interesting seminars about Ukrainian culture, economy, government and current status, slowly being able to read signs in Cyrillic, trying out Ukrainian champagne. Checking out the expo grounds each morning. The party we had the last night for our LCF’s in the lobby of our dorm. Meeting people, hanging out, etc.
After a week of this, we were scheduled to first find out what site and city we’d been assigned to then leave for our clusters for the remaining 3 months of training. “Clusters” means that we’re broken into groups of 3-5 people, each assigned a host family to live with, and each cluster has one LCF to teach whichever language is requested by our site, e.g. either Ukrainian or Russian.
The day before we were to depart for clusters, we were gathered in the afternoon in a large auditorium at the PiGy to find out our site and locations. The auditorium stage was laid out with paper to form a not-to-scale map of Ukraine, with major cities indicated by pieces of paper.
The Peace Corps has divided the country into regions not along oblast (like states) lines. I think there are 6-7 regions per the Peace Corps. In any case, the PC directors of these regions were there. Our training director, Andrey, read out our names, then the regional director for our site read out the organization name and city. It was rather like a game show and there was a keen sense of anticipation and nervousness among us.
I was really, really, really shocked when my name was read out attached to “Kyiv.” I stood on the stage in awed silence, growing increasingly upset as I read the sheet of paper that had a description of the organization I’d been assigned to.
Even though I knew from our training that little of what was written on the sheet of paper would really be true in our experience at the organization, I still was quite upset. The organization, the Consortium for the Enhancement of Management Education, works to promote increased and standardized business education in Ukraine. It seemed like a very generic, business assignment and I couldn’t tell at all what part of my experience was related to business education. Further, how could I learn Russian if I was in Kyiv? My paper listed the fact that all the staff members spoke English and that the director was American.
Everything seemed so contrary to what I’d been preparing myself for: a mid-sized city away from the international, urbane capitol, in a situation where I’d absolutely HAVE to learn Russian/Ukrainian, somewhat isolated from Americans or other expatriates. How could I have this super-posh assignment and really have a true Peace Corps experience? I was going to be a complete lazy, English speaking moron, working for a business education organization.
Thus, I had my first proper meltdown. It was somewhat public, as I have never been skilled at hiding my emotions. Some comments about how my meltdown was received. The LCF’s were around, probably on purpose as I imagine I’m not the first PCT to meltdown at this stage. When I was trying hard to get out of the building to compose myself in private, a couple stopped me with concern. That was lovely, despite my utter incoherence at the time. I also was really touched by how supportive some of my fellow trainees were, especially the ones that were really excited by the page of information they received.
I did get to my room, drank some water, tried to calm down. I went to the session the Kyiv regional manager was having to orient us. I was still really upset and couldn’t speak to anyone without crying.
After the session, I left and soon realized that I needed to talk to someone about my concerns, because otherwise I was going to *really* freak out. Peace Corps is pretty touchy-feely for a government organization and encourages “reaching out.” However, I really hate being very teary in public and further really hate to complain about things that don’t feel justified, so it was difficult.
I was able to talk privately with a Peace Corps employee who’s helping with the Kyiv region and he was not touchy-feely, but very helpful. I needed facts mainly and also a bit of time to wrap my head around this concept of working in the capitol and for an American-lead organization.
He was a skillful salesman, and helped me to see the potential in the site placement and also told me that it was a high-profile job that could give me excellent contacts within the international development community. He could have sold me prime farmland in Chernobyl Zone 1 at that point, but it calmed me and allowed my reasoning functions to resume and my body to leave the stress zone.
Blog for the dates of 4-6 March 2003
We flew via Lufthansa uneventfully to Frankfurt. Lufthansa is nice. Frankfurt was a great layover, as it was German and therefore nice and clean, but very European, so a little foreign, which was good to adjust to.
We then took a smaller plane that was all Business Class (read, “bigger, leather chairs, nicer food and especially friendly flight attendants”). When we began to descend, I was riveted as we emerged below the clouds and saw a frozen vista, white and gray and black and more gray. I think I imbued it with a sense of difference, but if I’d been told we were descending into Kansas, I would have believed it.
The Peace Corps Ukraine staff was waiting for us after Immigration with warm greetings and luggage carts. We loaded up, then gathered outside the airport to toss bags into one truck, bodies into another.
By this time, we’d been traveling for 18 hours or so, counting the Frankfurt layover, and my body was tired. I’d slept pieces of time during the journey, but really very little. I found myself getting annoyed with a particularly loudmouthed fellow trainee that had sat behind me on both planes and now the bus – 18 hours of loud comments that were only funny the first 5 hours. When he said this particularly insensitive comment, I almost throttled him: “I guess if I roll around in the dirt for a while, I’ll look just like the people here.” Luckily, our training director, Andrey, was talking with this person and had a patient retort for him.
We arrived at our home for the next week, the Post Graduate Institute, or the Piggy, on the outskirts of Kyiv. I was thrilled, thrilled, thrilled to find nice rooms, nice bathrooms and HOT WATER!! I realized how much I’d prepared myself for hardship in this experience and how each time something was nice, how happy I was.
I needed to stay awake and desperately needed to be outside, despite the cold and gray or perhaps because of it. I found some co-conspirators and we pretended we didn’t know we weren’t supposed to leave the grounds. For god’s sake, we’re not in Iran, we’re just in Kyiv and the suburbs for that matter! Even though it will take away from the rebel factor, one of my co-conspirators, Carrie, is a fluent Russian speaker, so we knew we’d be ok. Safe rebellion isn’t as sexy.
We walked up a broad avenue and saw a golden spire of some type in the distance and decided to walk to it. What we found was an immense grounds of an exposition center, full of nearly 20 enormous Soviet style buildings, each with wonderful tributes to the agricultural might of Ukraine. We ventured up to one and found it open and heated, somewhat of a surprise. We’d find out eventually that this was built in the 1960’s and was a former National Fair grounds, now used for conventions. That was a find.
We had dinner in the cafeteria and enjoyed our first pounded, egg battered fried meat and mashed potatoes meal and then soon retired for sleep. I slept a normal night and felt quite unscathed from jet lag, a first for me.
We flew via Lufthansa uneventfully to Frankfurt. Lufthansa is nice. Frankfurt was a great layover, as it was German and therefore nice and clean, but very European, so a little foreign, which was good to adjust to.
We then took a smaller plane that was all Business Class (read, “bigger, leather chairs, nicer food and especially friendly flight attendants”). When we began to descend, I was riveted as we emerged below the clouds and saw a frozen vista, white and gray and black and more gray. I think I imbued it with a sense of difference, but if I’d been told we were descending into Kansas, I would have believed it.
The Peace Corps Ukraine staff was waiting for us after Immigration with warm greetings and luggage carts. We loaded up, then gathered outside the airport to toss bags into one truck, bodies into another.
By this time, we’d been traveling for 18 hours or so, counting the Frankfurt layover, and my body was tired. I’d slept pieces of time during the journey, but really very little. I found myself getting annoyed with a particularly loudmouthed fellow trainee that had sat behind me on both planes and now the bus – 18 hours of loud comments that were only funny the first 5 hours. When he said this particularly insensitive comment, I almost throttled him: “I guess if I roll around in the dirt for a while, I’ll look just like the people here.” Luckily, our training director, Andrey, was talking with this person and had a patient retort for him.
We arrived at our home for the next week, the Post Graduate Institute, or the Piggy, on the outskirts of Kyiv. I was thrilled, thrilled, thrilled to find nice rooms, nice bathrooms and HOT WATER!! I realized how much I’d prepared myself for hardship in this experience and how each time something was nice, how happy I was.
I needed to stay awake and desperately needed to be outside, despite the cold and gray or perhaps because of it. I found some co-conspirators and we pretended we didn’t know we weren’t supposed to leave the grounds. For god’s sake, we’re not in Iran, we’re just in Kyiv and the suburbs for that matter! Even though it will take away from the rebel factor, one of my co-conspirators, Carrie, is a fluent Russian speaker, so we knew we’d be ok. Safe rebellion isn’t as sexy.
We walked up a broad avenue and saw a golden spire of some type in the distance and decided to walk to it. What we found was an immense grounds of an exposition center, full of nearly 20 enormous Soviet style buildings, each with wonderful tributes to the agricultural might of Ukraine. We ventured up to one and found it open and heated, somewhat of a surprise. We’d find out eventually that this was built in the 1960’s and was a former National Fair grounds, now used for conventions. That was a find.
We had dinner in the cafeteria and enjoyed our first pounded, egg battered fried meat and mashed potatoes meal and then soon retired for sleep. I slept a normal night and felt quite unscathed from jet lag, a first for me.
Blog for the dates of 1-4 March 2003
It has been some time since I have written here. I will endeavor to catch the blog up to date in small batches.
I last wrote after the Tour d'East Coast and family adventure. I returned to Boulder for about 12 days to finish up work and packing and get in a healthy dose of freaking out.
I was so overwhelmed by my friends' outpouring of support, meals and attention. One common thought throughout this process has been how I do nothing alone and how I am so supported in this adventure.
We had a happy hour at Bacaro in Boulder the Saturday night before I left. I was gratified at the amount of people that came, down to Sherry, a wonderful, interesting woman I know b/c she has been cleaning my teeth at Dr. Baxt's office for 6 yrs or so...
It was surreal to think that the night was my last one for a while and saying goodbye at times was difficult. I stayed out too late, guilty all the while for not being home and spending QT with Hawk. It’s hard even now, some 3 weeks later, to think of it. It was snowing hard and when Christopher and I got back to Frieda’s home, we took Hawk out for a jaunt in the snow. Hawk was a bit more crazed than usual perhaps in reaction to my obvious stress. I guess there’s just no good way to leave.
The next morning, I got up early, still finishing last bits of packing, and Christopher helped me stuff my 4 bags, Hawk and us into his jeep. Luckily, it had stopped snowing sometime in the night, and the driving was fine. I was tired, numb, overwhelmed, grateful beyond compare to Christopher for being with me and being willing to drive me to the airport.
Without going through the whole sad saga, I said a difficult goodbye to both the dog and the man. I made it to my gate and found my PC friend, Scott, waiting already to fly to Chicago.
When we took off, the plane made a broad arch to the West to turn around and I felt so happy to see those craggy, snowy peaks from such a vantage point one more time before leaving. It felt right to say a proper goodbye to them as well. Only they are nearly guaranteed not to change much in my absence.
We arrived in Chicago to the hotel where we’d stay for 2 days before departing for Ukraine. Those days were pretty surreal. I met lots of people, we had initial training to begin our PC indoctrination and took care of some logistics. There I met Carrie, who is becoming a good friend, as well as loads of cool, interesting people from all sorts of backgrounds. Young college grads, people with a few years work experience, retired lawyers, business people, lots of non-profit experience, lots of living abroad experience. We had a generous per diem and it was indulgent to eat Vietnamese, sushi, etc. for lunches and dinners.
The last night in Chicago, I stayed out way too late at an Irish pub and had fun meeting new people and hanging out with people I already knew. One of our PC staff, Matt, was out also and it was fun to get to know him unofficially.
The next day was full of “hurry up and wait” moments. I was thrilled to be able to comfortably carry my luggage on my back and w/ the luggage cart and felt quite smug when watching other PCT’s struggle. (competitive nature rears its ugly head – must remember, the race is with myself)
I was so grateful that Frieda had gotten me a postage-paid envelope for me to mail my cell phone to her from the airport. I spent much of my time in the line to check in talking to Stephanie and this was such a lovely way to say goodbye to home, and spent much of my waiting time before the airport calling people, leaving messages on answering machines, etc. It was so comforting.
It has been some time since I have written here. I will endeavor to catch the blog up to date in small batches.
I last wrote after the Tour d'East Coast and family adventure. I returned to Boulder for about 12 days to finish up work and packing and get in a healthy dose of freaking out.
I was so overwhelmed by my friends' outpouring of support, meals and attention. One common thought throughout this process has been how I do nothing alone and how I am so supported in this adventure.
We had a happy hour at Bacaro in Boulder the Saturday night before I left. I was gratified at the amount of people that came, down to Sherry, a wonderful, interesting woman I know b/c she has been cleaning my teeth at Dr. Baxt's office for 6 yrs or so...
It was surreal to think that the night was my last one for a while and saying goodbye at times was difficult. I stayed out too late, guilty all the while for not being home and spending QT with Hawk. It’s hard even now, some 3 weeks later, to think of it. It was snowing hard and when Christopher and I got back to Frieda’s home, we took Hawk out for a jaunt in the snow. Hawk was a bit more crazed than usual perhaps in reaction to my obvious stress. I guess there’s just no good way to leave.
The next morning, I got up early, still finishing last bits of packing, and Christopher helped me stuff my 4 bags, Hawk and us into his jeep. Luckily, it had stopped snowing sometime in the night, and the driving was fine. I was tired, numb, overwhelmed, grateful beyond compare to Christopher for being with me and being willing to drive me to the airport.
Without going through the whole sad saga, I said a difficult goodbye to both the dog and the man. I made it to my gate and found my PC friend, Scott, waiting already to fly to Chicago.
When we took off, the plane made a broad arch to the West to turn around and I felt so happy to see those craggy, snowy peaks from such a vantage point one more time before leaving. It felt right to say a proper goodbye to them as well. Only they are nearly guaranteed not to change much in my absence.
We arrived in Chicago to the hotel where we’d stay for 2 days before departing for Ukraine. Those days were pretty surreal. I met lots of people, we had initial training to begin our PC indoctrination and took care of some logistics. There I met Carrie, who is becoming a good friend, as well as loads of cool, interesting people from all sorts of backgrounds. Young college grads, people with a few years work experience, retired lawyers, business people, lots of non-profit experience, lots of living abroad experience. We had a generous per diem and it was indulgent to eat Vietnamese, sushi, etc. for lunches and dinners.
The last night in Chicago, I stayed out way too late at an Irish pub and had fun meeting new people and hanging out with people I already knew. One of our PC staff, Matt, was out also and it was fun to get to know him unofficially.
The next day was full of “hurry up and wait” moments. I was thrilled to be able to comfortably carry my luggage on my back and w/ the luggage cart and felt quite smug when watching other PCT’s struggle. (competitive nature rears its ugly head – must remember, the race is with myself)
I was so grateful that Frieda had gotten me a postage-paid envelope for me to mail my cell phone to her from the airport. I spent much of my time in the line to check in talking to Stephanie and this was such a lovely way to say goodbye to home, and spent much of my waiting time before the airport calling people, leaving messages on answering machines, etc. It was so comforting.
24 February 2003
I’m sitting on the floor at lovely Frieda’s house, with whom I’m staying til departure. I am surrounded by neat piles of clothes, her scale and miscellany, wearing my red fleece bathrobe and a vintage rabbit fur hat that is one part Elmer Fudd and one part Russian. Ah, packing. I’m exhausted, probably self-inflicted for being so damn emotive. The scale is to weigh the disparate bags that I’m packing. Am down to 8 lbs. of summer clothes! Am planning to wear many layers of clothing on the plane to offset luggage weight. Am so ready to leave, tired of saying goodbye’s and explaining what/where/when. Am whining. Am writing like Bridget Jones wanna-be. Am, or perhaps have, lost mind.
The remainder of the trip down the eastern seaboard went well. After NYC, I went to DC, to visit Nanny and got the bonus of time with my cousin, Kelly and her charming husband, Jae. They were asking about winters in CO, wondering if they’d enjoy moving here, but are worried about the weather. The weather here?! It was sleeting and freezing in DC, which one knows will be followed by a steamy and dank summer. I’m not sure who’s doing the PR for CO weather, but they need a new marketing campaign. Actually, with the number of people moving here, I guess we need to keep up the subterfuge regarding the weather.
In DC, I visited with Nanny in her nursing home, the aptly named, “Sleepy Hollow.” It is a surprising name, as it seems to me that many such facilities prefer more euphemistic names, such as “Golden Sunsets.” It was a good visit, she knew who I was and was happy to see me. I’m not sure if I’ll see her again alive and that is difficult.
Then, I took Amtrak to NC, where Mom picked me up at the lovely Cary train depot. I must admit to a bad attitude about the ‘burbs. We traveled farther south to SC, to visit WONDERFUL, INSPIRATIONAL, FANTABULOSO Great Aunt Eva. She is so much a hero to me. Her attitude, spirit and sense of humor, at any age but particularly at 85, give me such joy and hope about growing old. Before we arrived at Aunt Eva’s house in Great Falls, SC, we visited to other great aunts, Theo and Sadie, both residing at Bethea Baptist Home, a wonderful facility for white Southern Baptists.
Aunt Theo is 97 and she told us this visit that she’s tired and ready to go to heaven. Aunt Theo never married and lived a very full life, first working all over the southeast as a nurse, and then in retirement, traveling with her church and with friends. We always spend a lot of time during our visits looking at her carefully put together photo albums and hearing her stories. Sadie is the 92 year old matriarch of a large family and an avid seamstress. While it was difficult to hear Aunt Theo talk about being ready to go to heaven, it also is good to hear someone be clear about dying and even really for someone to talk about it at all.
A Southern tradition that I just recently learned is that of buying and erecting one’s tombstone before one passes. The name and birth date are carved in, awaiting the final date. The first time I saw Aunt Theo’s it creeped me out, but now I see the practicality and control that it gives a person. Aunt Eva, who takes care of Aunt Theo since she doesn’t have any children to do so and because Eva is the baby girl of that generation, told Mom and me that Theo has already picked out her burial outfit and what she wants in the coffin with her.
After SC, we returned North. We had a party with many of my parent’s friends who have known me since I was a lil’ girl. That was a lot of fun and everyone was super interested and supportive. Ken, our old next door neighbor, had the funniest comment: “Wendy, (say with good sized drawl) do people ask you all the time what the fuck you think you’re doing?” referring to going to work in some God-forsaken part of the world where they probably hate Americans.
It may be cheezy, but I think I will draw substantial amount of comfort and imagined support thinking back on these travels when I am far far away from home.
love,
wlu
The remainder of the trip down the eastern seaboard went well. After NYC, I went to DC, to visit Nanny and got the bonus of time with my cousin, Kelly and her charming husband, Jae. They were asking about winters in CO, wondering if they’d enjoy moving here, but are worried about the weather. The weather here?! It was sleeting and freezing in DC, which one knows will be followed by a steamy and dank summer. I’m not sure who’s doing the PR for CO weather, but they need a new marketing campaign. Actually, with the number of people moving here, I guess we need to keep up the subterfuge regarding the weather.
In DC, I visited with Nanny in her nursing home, the aptly named, “Sleepy Hollow.” It is a surprising name, as it seems to me that many such facilities prefer more euphemistic names, such as “Golden Sunsets.” It was a good visit, she knew who I was and was happy to see me. I’m not sure if I’ll see her again alive and that is difficult.
Then, I took Amtrak to NC, where Mom picked me up at the lovely Cary train depot. I must admit to a bad attitude about the ‘burbs. We traveled farther south to SC, to visit WONDERFUL, INSPIRATIONAL, FANTABULOSO Great Aunt Eva. She is so much a hero to me. Her attitude, spirit and sense of humor, at any age but particularly at 85, give me such joy and hope about growing old. Before we arrived at Aunt Eva’s house in Great Falls, SC, we visited to other great aunts, Theo and Sadie, both residing at Bethea Baptist Home, a wonderful facility for white Southern Baptists.
Aunt Theo is 97 and she told us this visit that she’s tired and ready to go to heaven. Aunt Theo never married and lived a very full life, first working all over the southeast as a nurse, and then in retirement, traveling with her church and with friends. We always spend a lot of time during our visits looking at her carefully put together photo albums and hearing her stories. Sadie is the 92 year old matriarch of a large family and an avid seamstress. While it was difficult to hear Aunt Theo talk about being ready to go to heaven, it also is good to hear someone be clear about dying and even really for someone to talk about it at all.
A Southern tradition that I just recently learned is that of buying and erecting one’s tombstone before one passes. The name and birth date are carved in, awaiting the final date. The first time I saw Aunt Theo’s it creeped me out, but now I see the practicality and control that it gives a person. Aunt Eva, who takes care of Aunt Theo since she doesn’t have any children to do so and because Eva is the baby girl of that generation, told Mom and me that Theo has already picked out her burial outfit and what she wants in the coffin with her.
After SC, we returned North. We had a party with many of my parent’s friends who have known me since I was a lil’ girl. That was a lot of fun and everyone was super interested and supportive. Ken, our old next door neighbor, had the funniest comment: “Wendy, (say with good sized drawl) do people ask you all the time what the fuck you think you’re doing?” referring to going to work in some God-forsaken part of the world where they probably hate Americans.
It may be cheezy, but I think I will draw substantial amount of comfort and imagined support thinking back on these travels when I am far far away from home.
love,
wlu
04 February 2003
Hello after a brief hiatus! I am in NYC visiting family at present and grateful to have finished the majority of dealing with storage and moving out of the charming house on Spruce back into friend Frieda's palatial condo. Regina, roomate of said charming house, gave me a very sweet card in parting. Hawk is now soujourning with Sarah as I make my way down the east coast. Yesterday, I drove ALL BY MYSELF through the city to La Guardia. All these years I've been coming to the city and I've always avoided driving like a mushroom pizza, but there was a need for a driver and I decided that I should risk it. Fran, ex-wife of my Dad's and still family, gave me excellent directions and it was a hassle-free adventure, cutting off taxis and singing along w/ Norah Jones.
After returning to the city w/ Fran and Karen, I walked east to meet Dad for lunch. Afterwards, he took me up to the condo in Trump Tower that he's renovating. It belongs to a commercially successful author, Robin Cook, and is a tad nouveau riche for my taste. Then I kept walking about mid-town, first east to the Ukrainian Consulate, which was closed, then back west to meet Sam and walk in the park. We stopped for a moment at the boat pond and there were 2 Asian wedding parties having their photos and videos done. The brides were very elaborate white gowns and the bridemaids wore pastel dresses and all had their hair twisted, sprayed and decorated high.
Today, back to the Consulate for dog shipping info, downtown to work at Dad's place, then meet a couple, Tom and Tina, for dinner. They are in the same group to Ukraine and I think we'll go to dinner somewhere in the East Village, perhaps a Ukrainian place they know. I need to look for calling cards there.
It is good to be in the city and it is good to see family. I love just walking around, observing odd New York moments, typical New York moments, sad New York moments. Examples in order: 1. guy boarding bus w/ traveling cart full of board games such as "Green Eggs and Ham, the board game." 2. Woman, dressed to the nines in big shades, big hair, fur coat and Monolo Blahniks talking loudly on cell phone while strolling down 5th Ave. 3. The street guy w/ a kempt beard, nice feng shui on his decorated cart. The organized street people really make me sad.
love,
wlu
After returning to the city w/ Fran and Karen, I walked east to meet Dad for lunch. Afterwards, he took me up to the condo in Trump Tower that he's renovating. It belongs to a commercially successful author, Robin Cook, and is a tad nouveau riche for my taste. Then I kept walking about mid-town, first east to the Ukrainian Consulate, which was closed, then back west to meet Sam and walk in the park. We stopped for a moment at the boat pond and there were 2 Asian wedding parties having their photos and videos done. The brides were very elaborate white gowns and the bridemaids wore pastel dresses and all had their hair twisted, sprayed and decorated high.
Today, back to the Consulate for dog shipping info, downtown to work at Dad's place, then meet a couple, Tom and Tina, for dinner. They are in the same group to Ukraine and I think we'll go to dinner somewhere in the East Village, perhaps a Ukrainian place they know. I need to look for calling cards there.
It is good to be in the city and it is good to see family. I love just walking around, observing odd New York moments, typical New York moments, sad New York moments. Examples in order: 1. guy boarding bus w/ traveling cart full of board games such as "Green Eggs and Ham, the board game." 2. Woman, dressed to the nines in big shades, big hair, fur coat and Monolo Blahniks talking loudly on cell phone while strolling down 5th Ave. 3. The street guy w/ a kempt beard, nice feng shui on his decorated cart. The organized street people really make me sad.
love,
wlu
30 January 2003
Last night I dreamt a long time about Ukraine. The people were rather more Northern Scandanavian and all spoke very good English. Their sense of personal space was much closer than mine and I was uncomfortable with their proximity and shoving about. I was at a church of some kind, after riding on a bus with a Chinese family that spoke no English, and it was a holiday. A handsome, red-haired lad tried to get friendly with me. He told me my hair looked like a copper scrubby thing and meant it as a compliment. Hawk was tied up outside, so I didn't stay long in the church, but long enough to listen to the service. While I'd been on the bus, the vista had been one more suited to Nepal than Ukraine, with soaring mountains and brown-skinned people wearing hand-woven garb. (the Nepal bit maybe came from an NPR segment yesterday about a new internet cafe at Mt. Everest base camp). There was a man on the bus of the previous description and he was trying to figure out what language I spoke and where I came from. He asked me in French, Spanish, German then English if I spoke each of those languages.
It's getting very close, soon all of this life in Boulder will seem a distant and surreal dream.
Off for Hawk and my daily sanity-preserving run.
love,
wlu
It's getting very close, soon all of this life in Boulder will seem a distant and surreal dream.
Off for Hawk and my daily sanity-preserving run.
love,
wlu
29 January 2003
Today, I met Peace Corps Ukraine Business Dev. Project Group 24's Rizwan Merchant and Scott Lasher (who I already met last wk) to hike to Mallory Caves west of NCAR. Meeting people in my group has been so helpful, particularly because the two I've met so far have been such compadres! Creating a sense of community this early really helps me with any lingering fears I have about being REALLY alone, instead of just being alone. :-D We discussed some of the threads on our discussion board on Yahoo! (PeaceCorpsUkraine) and where we'd all been in our lives when we decided to join the PC, relationships, etc. Good news: Rizwan can cook northern Indian, hurrah!
Am still in the process of selling my car. Today, a lovely and well-meaning lady who test drove it, asked if she could "rent" the car for 2 weeks, then decide about buying it. I had to decline her offer. I'm hopeful that a college student that drove it today may buy, otherwise, Super-Rupair will on Fri. Then I'm moving out of this lovely home on Spruce St. and going back east to see my Dad & Samala (NYC), Nanny (DC), Mom (NC), Great Aunt Eva (SC), etc.! It will be the Gran Tour'd'East Coast and I hope to remain calm thru out.
Non-sequitor alert: Yesterday while running past some Boulder HS students taking a morning gym class, I saw how some were thin and athletic and others were lagging at the end of the line running. I wanted to shout out something to them from my older vantage point. "Get used to exercise - you need it!" or "Don't despair, the thin and athletic ones aren't perfect!" Anyway, I didn't because I realized suddenly that I had no wisdom to share, that I have fewer answers than ever. I'm comfortable with that.
love,
wlu
Am still in the process of selling my car. Today, a lovely and well-meaning lady who test drove it, asked if she could "rent" the car for 2 weeks, then decide about buying it. I had to decline her offer. I'm hopeful that a college student that drove it today may buy, otherwise, Super-Rupair will on Fri. Then I'm moving out of this lovely home on Spruce St. and going back east to see my Dad & Samala (NYC), Nanny (DC), Mom (NC), Great Aunt Eva (SC), etc.! It will be the Gran Tour'd'East Coast and I hope to remain calm thru out.
Non-sequitor alert: Yesterday while running past some Boulder HS students taking a morning gym class, I saw how some were thin and athletic and others were lagging at the end of the line running. I wanted to shout out something to them from my older vantage point. "Get used to exercise - you need it!" or "Don't despair, the thin and athletic ones aren't perfect!" Anyway, I didn't because I realized suddenly that I had no wisdom to share, that I have fewer answers than ever. I'm comfortable with that.
love,
wlu
27 January 2003
Today was a day of logistics and a bit demoralizing. I've been trying to be up front with people interested in buying my car and they seem to use this as a bargaining tool. In any case, I know it will all work out in the next couple of weeks and will seem no big deal in retrospect. It just makes me tired. I'm so looking forward to being done with all the errands and such and living out of my backpack. I say now. :-) Off to read and sleep early, the best cure for exhaustion.
xo,
wlu
xo,
wlu
26 January 2003
This morning was a classic example of everything I love about living in Boulder. I got up early to run in Mapleton Hill w/ Hawk, then met Amy Wicker, Fried and a couple other ladies for a Hike n' Brunch for Amy and Baby Wicker. We hiked an easy loop at Chataqua and it is beautiful, warm, sunshine for days, perfect Boulder Sunday. I think knowing that I am leaving makes me appreciate the mountains, endless sunshine and comfort of Boulder. I'm still so excited for this change, even as I sort of mourn leaving this amazing place. I think I'd be bored if I stayed - too much sun, too many smiling, 3% body fat, fit people, no diversity. But I will miss hiking and trail running with friends, feeling small under the flatirons, eating great burritos, the farmer's market, a myriad of things. This has turned into an Ode To Boulder. :-D
love,
wlu
love,
wlu
25 January 2003
Welcome to my Peace Corps::Ukraine blog! As I begin this journal, our group (Group 24) has 36 days to departure. On 2 Mar. 2003, we will go to Chicago for a 2 day pre-training ("staging" in Peace Corps parlance), then fly to Kyiv, Ukraine on 4 Mar. Last night I had my first going away party, a "Take What You Can Carry" shindig, where I invited people to take whatever stuff that I was getting rid of. My friends helped me out by taking nearly 1/2 the bags of clothing, shoes, books and miscellany as well as drinking a good bit of sangria. Made my job today much easier hauling away the remainder...
Last Thurs., I met Scott Lasher, who is a trial attorney in Denver, lungs-of-iron-mountain-man and also going to Ukraine with Group 24 in March! We had a great time hiking Mt. Sanitas here in Boulder and comparing pre-trip notes. It was so comforting to meet someone from my group and triply so because he is rather a kindred spirit. I can't hardly wrap my mind around what my life will be like in a few months, but I guess that I don't really need to.
That's it for today's report. Please check out the FAQ and maps that I posted at http://www.wendylu.com/pcUkraine/info.
I wonder if Hawk, my dog who is peacefully and a little odiforously lying beside me, is aware of our imminent changes?
over and out,
wlu
Last Thurs., I met Scott Lasher, who is a trial attorney in Denver, lungs-of-iron-mountain-man and also going to Ukraine with Group 24 in March! We had a great time hiking Mt. Sanitas here in Boulder and comparing pre-trip notes. It was so comforting to meet someone from my group and triply so because he is rather a kindred spirit. I can't hardly wrap my mind around what my life will be like in a few months, but I guess that I don't really need to.
That's it for today's report. Please check out the FAQ and maps that I posted at http://www.wendylu.com/pcUkraine/info.
I wonder if Hawk, my dog who is peacefully and a little odiforously lying beside me, is aware of our imminent changes?
over and out,
wlu
